Wild West Guns Trigger

Wes · Post by **Wes** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:45 am

I was given a WWG trigger for a Marlin 1895. The rifle most in need of it is a 336 in 35 Rem. I'm sure it'll work, but thought I'd ask to be sure. Has anyone here put them in by themselves. I'm not totally unhandy, but not a gunsmith either. Are they hard to put in? Would you recommend having someone more qualified than a turd kickin cowboy do it? Thanks.

azoil · Post by **azoil** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 11:11 am

Piece of cake Wes. Just use hollow ground (gunsmith) screwdrivers so as not to bugger the heads. You will need a small punch (about 1/16") to get the trigger pin out as well. Other than that, just pay attention to how it comes apart. If you run into trouble, just come back here for help.

iowa45 · Post by **iowa45** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 11:28 am

I put one in my 1894 and it was really easy. If you can disassemble your rifle, you can install it.

Borregos · Post by **Borregos** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 11:29 am

azoil +1, I did both my 1895's no problem.

Wes · Post by **Wes** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 12:45 pm

Thanks guys, just needed a little encouragement. I hope it helps this rifle, got about a 6lb pull. Shoots good though it's tough to really bear down and shoot good with that kind of trigger.

azoil · Post by **azoil** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 12:46 pm

I have, I think, three of them in rifles. Best bolt on improvement you can make IMO.

nemhed · Post by **nemhed** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:15 pm

I'm glad this was brought up, you guys convinced me. I'm going to get one for my new 1984c. It really needs one.

Wes · Post by **Wes** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 7:04 pm

Alright azoil, I tore into this project and I'm having a hard time getting the hammer screw to line up. The action won't close when I get past this point either. It's almost like the follower wont' move, but I'm not sure. The hammer won't thread back in all the way and I don't want to strip the threads or cross thread it. Something just isn't right. Do you have to get the bottom tang/trigger group all the way out when you install this? Is there something there that could cause this? Help please, anyone.

azoil · Post by **azoil** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 7:11 pm

Wes,

Are you still taking it apart? I am a tad confused by this question:

Do you have to get the bottom tang/trigger group all the way out when you install this?

Because yes, you will need to remove the lower plate in order to do the swap.

azoil · Post by **azoil** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 7:50 pm

Refer to the following drawing:
http://www.gunuts.com/images/40.jpg

1. With the rifle still assembled, open the action and then remove the finger lever screw (#38 ).

2. Remove the finger lever. (#34)

3. Remove the breech bolt. (#3)

4. Remove the ejector. (#25)

5. Remove the Trigger guard plate support screw (#18 â€œupper tang screwâ€

azoil · Post by **azoil** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 7:51 pm

What did I miss guys?

Wes · Post by **Wes** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 8:59 pm

Already had the trigger installed. Now the follower won't work right when I go to close the bolt. Run the lever forward and it only goes a little ways, the follower won't go down.

azoil · Post by **azoil** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 9:10 pm

Do you mean the cartridge carrier? #22 in the picture?

It should normally be in the raised position as the breech bolt is moving forward. So that shouldn't be preventing the breech bolt from moving forward.
Do you have the finger lever installed with the screw installed?

azoil · Post by **azoil** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 9:12 pm

If it were in my hands I would start going backwards in the process until you find what is hanging up.

Anyone else ever run into this issue?

azoil · Post by **azoil** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 9:14 pm

Wes,

You didn't remove the carrier did you?

Wes · Post by **Wes** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:38 pm

No, I just followed the steps outlined. Actually had an old book on the 336 that I've had. The cartridge carrier does stay up, I see that now. I'm gonna run through it again. I'll get back with you. Thanks for your troubles.

azoil · Post by **azoil** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:46 pm

No problem, keep us posted.

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 9:43 am

Please explain in simple one or two silabel words to this humble (???) mixed blood European-American (mostly Lithuanian Polish ) what the big deal is about this Wild West trigger.

What makes it the hot gizmo right now?

Thank You

Joe

azoil · Post by **azoil** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 10:35 am

Joe,

For me, the shortest description is this, "Tighter Groups".

The trigger is lighter, crisper, and gets rid of the "trigger flop".

Leverdude · Post by **Leverdude** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 10:37 am

Its just a trigger with a spring in it to take up the slop some folks take issue with from Marlin triggers. It must be polished better than the factory part I think to give the lower pull people say it does.
I like tinkering myself too much to spend the bucks for one so far. But I may end up with one some day. Just to see what the fuss is about.
So far a few minutes with a fine diamond stone on the factory sear has worked for me just fine.

I'm not dissing the product, too many people like it for it to be a sham. I just dont need it.

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 11:02 am

OK, I see. Being a long time fan of the Mdl 94 Wins the trigger flop is a non issue. I don't even notice it.
And 90% of the leverguns I've owned need a trigger job. So that's a given.

Thanks.

Joe

Mtn Hawk · Post by **Mtn Hawk** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:23 pm

The WWG trigger was a big improvement on my Marlin 336 and 1894C.

I am not mechanically gifted and wouldn't have wanted to disassemble and reassemble these rifles without this guide (lots of photos). They can be downloaded. Midway has them and probably other mail-order companies do, too.

http://www.takedownguides.com/

Wes · Post by **Wes** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 5:44 pm

Being naturally stubborn. I decided since it didn't work too well tearing apart one Marlin that I'd go ahead and tear apart the 444 and try it. Put trigger in and had it back together in 10 minutes. Trigger works great. Nice clean 2 1/2lb trigger.
Things I noticed right away, when taking the bottom tang off the 336 it seemed like everything wanted to spring apart a little. None of the screw holes wanted to line back up.
With the 444 everything came apart easily and the holes lined up a hell of a bunch easier. Go figure.
Now I'm going to get that 35 Rem back together. Still seems like the bolt is binding on something.

azoil · Post by **azoil** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 5:47 pm

Hey Wes,

I noticed something after typing up all those instructions. That drawing has the instructions on it already. Doh!!

Leverdude · Post by **Leverdude** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 5:53 pm

Wes wrote:Being naturally stubborn. I decided since it didn't work too well tearing apart one Marlin that I'd go ahead and tear apart the 444 and try it. Put trigger in and had it back together in 10 minutes. Trigger works great. Nice clean 2 1/2lb trigger.
Things I noticed right away, when taking the bottom tang off the 336 it seemed like everything wanted to spring apart a little. None of the screw holes wanted to line back up.
With the 444 everything came apart easily and the holes lined up a hell of a bunch easier. Go figure.
Now I'm going to get that 35 Rem back together. Still seems like the bolt is binding on something.

Alot of times its muh easier to just start the trigger plate screws but not tighten them before trying the hammer screw. Lets things move around easier. Being slightly sprung isn't unusual.
It should be easy to find what the bolts dragging on. Might be some stuff in the ejector groove. Try sliding it back & forth without the lever or ejector.