Newbie question: Blueing?

[FatJackDurham]

What is Blueing? Is it a kind of plating, or enamel, or a paint? Or anodizing?

My Rossi has some cosmetic damage on the barrel band and the tip of the barrel. I wondered if that could be improved with polishing and re-bluing, but should I pay someone to do it or can it be done at home?

Also, I once had an old .22 with a lot of surface rust. I wondered then and still do how it could have been refinished.

Thoughts?

[kimwcook]

Blueing is oxidization. It's rust. In fact some forms of blueing is called rust blueing.

[FatJackDurham]

!

[kimwcook]

There is heat blueing, but it's not near as durable as rust blueing. Forgot to say that. Google up rust blueing and I'm sure you'll find some information to chew on.

[BigSky56]

Some Oxpho-blue creme from brownells will take care of your touch up use steel wool to remove the rust apply and reapply till it matches your existing blue color. danny

[FatJackDurham]

I wikipedia'd blue after I read your post that it was oxidation. Very interesting....

[shooter]

Yup, just about all forms of true bluing is nothing more than a controlled rust coating. It's a little more involved than just letting the gun rust, but in it's simplest form that's all it is. If you rust blue a gun, you basically use a solution to oxidize, then neutralize, polish (carding is what it's called), then repeat until you get your desired patina.

Hot bluing is what is found on most factory guns. They use a different chemical solution, but it's basically the same idea. They do a controlled oxidation, and when they have their desired results, neutralize the oxidation, polish and oil, and that prevents further rusting.

There are many forms of cold blue out there you can use to touch up your gun. If it is in a low wear area of the gun, I have found that Blue Wonder gun blue or gun black works pretty well. If it is in a high wear area there is no cold blue that will hold up anything like a professionally done hot blue.

Hope this helps, and I'm no expert on bluing, so if I have gotten any info wrong I hope someone will come along and correct me.

[alnitak]

I found a great product at a recent gun show that out performs any existing cold blue product I've seen. It's a solution that you just brush on (an old toothbrush was used), and it penetrates the metal, just like hot bluing. The only difference is that penetrates just half as far.

I watch this guy take sandpaper to a barrel and remove all the bluing. Then dip the toothbrush into the clear solution and brush it on the metal. No need to be careful and build up layers, like with most cold blues. No issue with the cold blue running into or ruining the factory blue. No drying time or mismatched colors. This stuff was like magic! And apparently, no chemical analysis can tell the difference between factory and this stuff. Needless to say, I was duly impressed!

Of course, I can't remember the name of this stuff (he also was selling so terrific stock refinishing products), but intend to pick up a pack at the next gun show in early-Feb (all the same vendors will show up again).

[Griff]

I found a great product at a recent gun show that out performs any existing cold blue product I've seen. It's a solution that you just brush on (an old toothbrush was used), and it penetrates the metal, just like hot bluing. The only difference is that penetrates just half as far.
I watch this guy take sandpaper to a barrel and remove all the bluing. Then dip the toothbrush into the clear solution and brush it on the metal. No need to be careful and build up layers, like with most cold blues. No issue with the cold blue running into or ruining the factory blue. No drying time or mismatched colors. This stuff was like magic! And apparently, no chemical analysis can tell the difference between factory and this stuff. Needless to say, I was duly impressed!
Of course, I can't remember the name of this stuff (he also was selling so terrific stock refinishing products), but intend to pick up a pack at the next gun show in early-Feb (all the same vendors will show up again).

Now that was just helpful as all get-out! After the Feb gunshow I expect a full report!
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BTW, I'm laughin' with ya... as I've done that same thing... er... suffer from that same... er... CRS!

[SteveR]

I found a great product at a recent gun show that out performs any existing cold blue product I've seen. It's a solution that you just brush on (an old toothbrush was used), and it penetrates the metal, just like hot bluing. The only difference is that penetrates just half as far.

I watch this guy take sandpaper to a barrel and remove all the bluing. Then dip the toothbrush into the clear solution and brush it on the metal. No need to be careful and build up layers, like with most cold blues. No issue with the cold blue running into or ruining the factory blue. No drying time or mismatched colors. This stuff was like magic! And apparently, no chemical analysis can tell the difference between factory and this stuff. Needless to say, I was duly impressed!

Of course, I can't remember the name of this stuff (he also was selling so terrific stock refinishing products), but intend to pick up a pack at the next gun show in early-Feb (all the same vendors will show up again).

Is this what you saw?
http://www.rb-treasures.com/MPI_Products/VanBlue.html

I would really love to to try a better cold blue and that one looks very promising.

Steve

[FatJackDurham]

That looks promising. I like that it is not a paint.

Btw, SteveR, my real name is Steve, last initial R. ^_^

I found a great product at a recent gun show that out performs any existing cold blue product I've seen. It's a solution that you just brush on (an old toothbrush was used), and it penetrates the metal, just like hot bluing. The only difference is that penetrates just half as far.

I watch this guy take sandpaper to a barrel and remove all the bluing. Then dip the toothbrush into the clear solution and brush it on the metal. No need to be careful and build up layers, like with most cold blues. No issue with the cold blue running into or ruining the factory blue. No drying time or mismatched colors. This stuff was like magic! And apparently, no chemical analysis can tell the difference between factory and this stuff. Needless to say, I was duly impressed!

Of course, I can't remember the name of this stuff (he also was selling so terrific stock refinishing products), but intend to pick up a pack at the next gun show in early-Feb (all the same vendors will show up again).

Is this what you saw?
http://www.rb-treasures.com/MPI_Products/VanBlue.html

I would really love to to try a better cold blue and that one looks very promising.

Steve

[alnitak]

I found a great product at a recent gun show that out performs any existing cold blue product I've seen. It's a solution that you just brush on (an old toothbrush was used), and it penetrates the metal, just like hot bluing. The only difference is that penetrates just half as far.

I watch this guy take sandpaper to a barrel and remove all the bluing. Then dip the toothbrush into the clear solution and brush it on the metal. No need to be careful and build up layers, like with most cold blues. No issue with the cold blue running into or ruining the factory blue. No drying time or mismatched colors. This stuff was like magic! And apparently, no chemical analysis can tell the difference between factory and this stuff. Needless to say, I was duly impressed!

Of course, I can't remember the name of this stuff (he also was selling so terrific stock refinishing products), but intend to pick up a pack at the next gun show in early-Feb (all the same vendors will show up again).

Is this what you saw?
http://www.rb-treasures.com/MPI_Products/VanBlue.html

I would really love to to try a better cold blue and that one looks very promising.

Steve

Yep...that looks like the stuff. It worked terrifically...in seconds!! The link says to "soak" the area, but no soaking was needed. He just brushed on the clear liquid. Already blued areas were not affected (i.e., they did not get any darker) -- the solution just ran off of the area. Only the sanded area got darker. After about 20 seconds, it was done. Amazing! I couldn't tell the difference between it and factory blue.

[Chuck 100 yd]

Controlled rust.

The so called slow rust bluing is one of the best finishes there is for guns IMHO and it is just controlled rust that has been boiled to turn it black.

[Leverdude]

I found a great product at a recent gun show that out performs any existing cold blue product I've seen. It's a solution that you just brush on (an old toothbrush was used), and it penetrates the metal, just like hot bluing. The only difference is that penetrates just half as far.

I watch this guy take sandpaper to a barrel and remove all the bluing. Then dip the toothbrush into the clear solution and brush it on the metal. No need to be careful and build up layers, like with most cold blues. No issue with the cold blue running into or ruining the factory blue. No drying time or mismatched colors. This stuff was like magic! And apparently, no chemical analysis can tell the difference between factory and this stuff. Needless to say, I was duly impressed!

Of course, I can't remember the name of this stuff (he also was selling so terrific stock refinishing products), but intend to pick up a pack at the next gun show in early-Feb (all the same vendors will show up again).

Vans Gun blue is what I think your talking about. I saw a very similar demo in Springfield Mass a few years back. Guy had an in the white barrel h had polished the blue off & the stuff seemed to work wonders. I didnt absorb all the voo doo bs he was spewing but he had a bunch of it. In the end I bought some to try. Its ok but no better than oxpho blue. Its just an acid that causes oxidation just like all the rest. I suspect that the slightly different formulations of cold blues work better on some steels than others & the barrel he uses is an alloy that that perticular blue works well on.

[FatJackDurham]

Okay, what about oiling? All of the directions say to oil the gun after the desired blue is reach.

I assume this is one of those things that is so obvious no one needs to explain it.... But....

Is it the same oil that you use in a cleaning kit? Is. It simply a matter of wiping a thin coat of oil on the barrel?

What about so called impregnated cloths. Is that oil?

Thanks for all th info.

[FatJackDurham]

Also, what about Birchwood Casey products? Are they the same as th Vans and Oxspho?

[FatJackDurham]

Before and after, using Birchwood Casey.

I only did the band, to test. I don't want to use the blue stripper on the barrel because I won't be able to match the factory black.

I think I will use a flapper wheel and a dremel and see if I can't de-rust the barrel and magazine selectively.

Still, pretty proud I did it. Thanks for all the help.

[SteveR]

That looks promising. I like that it is not a paint.

Btw, SteveR, my real name is Steve, last initial R. ^_^Steve

[/quote]

Nice to meet you Steve, and welcome to the forums. Lots of really good people here and can pretty much help with anything.

I will have to order some of the cold blue that was talked about, I have had good luck with other cold blues, but they did leave some to be desired.

Steve

[SteveR]

Looks like there is some deep pitting on the barrel, tube, and band. You will have a hard time getting it all out with a dremal. You may want to get some different grade sand papers and do it by hand so you can end up with a nice polish, you will need to work from course to fine grit paper.

So far it looks good, let us see how you progress.

And after you do any cold blue or polishing always oil the metal, it will rust over night and ruin your nice polish job (been there lol).

Steve

[kimwcook]

Your job on the front band looks pretty good. I agree with SteveR, just taking a wire wheel or similar to that barrel and mag tube isn't going to get you where you want to go. Filing or sanding is the only way to take that much pitting out. You might even look at replacing the tube with a new one and just working on the barrel. If you do end up sanding/filing make sure when you sand you use a backer or sanding block. You dont' want to put a bunch of work into it only to find out after bluing that the surface has more ripples than the Great Lakes with ten foot swells. Keep us informed.

[FatJackDurham]

I will. I think I will start a new thread for it, and put step by step photos.

See you there!