Question about reloading .38 Spec.

[Triggernosis]

I've got some .38 Spec. dies and bullets on order - they haven't arrived yet, but I'm thinking in advance. I'll be using the Lee carbide 4-die set. How do I deal with brass that's not the exact same length? Doesn't that affect the crimp?
I've reloaded thousands of rounds of .223 Rem. for my AR15, but never any pistol cartridges. Just thinking ahead as to how the process works.

[Hobie]

Lee makes a handy and simple trim system. They call it a case length gauge. Get one for the .38 Special along with the cutter and shellholder base and you can easily trim all the cases to one max length. Problem solved.

[Triggernosis]

I already have a case trimmer - I was just hoping there was some way around not having to trim it all to the same length....

[jhrosier]

I don't crimp ammo loaded for range use.
I set the crimper to just barely remove the bell.

If you really want or need a heavy crimp, you might want to check lengths and trim before loading. 38 spls don't tend to stretch when fired and most folks don't ever need to trim them.

Jack

[stretch]

i trim all of mine. Once they're trimmed, they tend to stay fairly
consistent. Good thing, 'cuz trimming several thousand of 'em
is a time-consuming, royal pain in the neck. I loathe trimming
brass, but it does result in a a nice consistent crimp, and therefore,
methinks, more consistent accuracy.

Much of my brass is mixed-headstamp, so lengths are all over
the place. I try to organize boxes by headstamp so each box
is as consistent as possible.

My two cents -your mileage may vary.

-Stretch

[2571]

I've been reloading .38Sp 30 years. I have never trimmed brass for it. On the extremely rare occasion I find an odd case, I discard it. I like & use a Lee factory crimp die.

[damienph]

I've been reloading .38Sp 30 years. I have never trimmed brass for it. On the extremely rare occasion I find an odd case, I discard it. I like & use a Lee factory crimp die.

Crimp die works for me too. Good crimp regardless of case length.

[mikld]

I started my reloading career by loading 38 Special. I usually use a roll crimp, except when using wadcutters when I use a light taper crimp. But a few thousandths difference in case length won't make much difference in a good roll crimp. After a few years of loading the .38, I just sorted by headstamp and I cannot tell any difference in accuracy or preformance. After a few thousand loads I rely on "feel" for crimping and often do not run the case up to the die/shell holder contact point...

[Triggernosis]

Crimp die works for me too. Good crimp regardless of case length.

Cool! That's what I was hoping to hear. I'm sure it'll all come together once I start pulling the lever on the press....

[Charles]

Well, my answer is it depends.

38 Special brass can become long and irregular at the case mouth, particularly if the cases have a canalure and it irons out. I don't both trimming 38 Special cases for plinking and general fun use.

That said, for critical use (hunting and target shooting), I do trim cases to a uniform length. A uniform length and square mouth makes for a uniform crimp which makes for a more accurate round.

There are all sorts of methods to trim cases, and I don't think one is better than another. I use a file trim die. With a double cut file it goes pretty quick.

I use a roll crimp and don't have much use for the Lee FCD, with cast bullets. The roll crimp works whether you trim or now. You must bet a better crimp and more uniform bullet retention and powder burn with trimmed cases.

[Hobie]

I already have a case trimmer - I was just hoping there was some way around not having to trim it all to the same length....

Well, excuse me. You said...

How do I deal with brass that's not the exact same length? Doesn't that affect the crimp?

Since length can affect a roll crimp, yep, trim 'em. If you don't care to, use the FCD. If you don't care to do that just whang 'em together and be done with it. Just don't use too much powder and you'll be fine.

I guess I default to the idea that if you're going to do something, do it right. That's the simplest way I know to do it right.

[AJMD429]

I think Lee's advertisement for the Factory Crimp die (included in the 4-die deluxe set) says that case length "doesn't matter", but it is worth noting that their "rifle" and "pistol" FCD's are different designs.

I think the four-fingered collet-type setup in the "rifle" dies (which Lee will MAKE for you in .38 special for a nominal charge) makes sense as not depending on case-length, if you look at how it works, but I'm not convinced that the "pistol" ones are going to be the same.

Bottom line - try what you've got without trimming, and see if you get decent results; if you can chrono them and you get the same 'spread' of velocities from an un-trimmed lot as from a trimmed lot, you have your answer. If no chronograph, bench-rested accuracy could serve as a similar indicator of uniformity.

[WCF3030]

I don't crimp ammo loaded for range use.
I set the crimper to just barely remove the bell.

If you really want or need a heavy crimp, you might want to check lengths and trim before loading. 38 spls don't tend to stretch when fired and most folks don't ever need to trim them.

Jack

+1
I use a light roll crimp on my 38 spec range ammo and only concern myself with case length when loading +p type 173gr cast or +p 110gr jacketed.

[El Chivo]

Hmm. I've never trimmed my .357 cases and they seem to crimp very consistently (I have the Lee die set).

I will occasionally reseat a bullet if it looks like it is a different depth than the others. But that can be due to other things besides case length. Doesn't the seating die put a crimp in it first?

[L_Kilkenny]

I too have never trimmed brass and this includes .357 and .32H&R which I currently load for. I use RCBS dies and a fairly heavy roll crimp but do my crimping separately than seating. I think it gives me a better "feel" when doing it. Never had any issues and accuracy/consistency is only limited by the loose nut behind the trigger. If I was trying for a light crimp an extra thousandth or two might make a difference but not for me.

Does it help that all my loads are usually well within book at not hard on brass? Probably.

LK