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I have a Steven's model 200 in .270 Win. Well, actually two of them. They are both tack drivers and the last one cost me the princely sum of $180 - you may remember by post about that - Academy Sports on-sale purchase.
Anyhoo, several people have mentioned that there are barrel-switch kits available... here and on other boards.
So, well, I finally decided to give it a go - ordered the barrel kit from Brownells - .338-06 - a neat caliber that I've always admired. The kit comes with the ER Shaw barrel, barrel nut wrench, two guages for headspacing and directions.
The kit is for Savage 110's but that's what a Stevens is... the old school version.
Anyway, I'll post the results after it gets here and I have a go at switching the barrels out.
Wow. Can't wait. I've thought about doing that so I could get a really heavy-barrel (i.e. bull or even straight-taper) 7mm Rem Mag, vs. what they offer from the factory. Or a threaded .338 Whisper or .338 Federal. Or...
Doctors for Sensible Gun Laws "first do no harm" - gun control LAWS lead to far more deaths than 'easy access' ever could.
Other actions can be set up as switch barrels also, for those that aren't big fans of the Savage action. One outfit specializes in Remington 700's. I'm doing a couple tang safety Ruger 77's as switch barrels. I don't want every chambering known to man, just 2 or 3 different barrels each for two actions, a short and long. Factory take-off barrels are usually pretty affordable (even had a couple given to me), so all that's needed after original setup is turning the threads forward on the barrel. The gunsmith is making smooth type barrel nuts.
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat." -Theodore Roosevelt-
Isnt it amazing how many people post without reading the thread?
Interesting stuff. This is my first time with this. From what I understand, the Stevens is just the "old" 110, so it should be compatible. The rifle is currently a .270 Win so this should just involve removing and replacing the barrel.
But I need to remove the extractor to headspace? I figured that would be covered in the directions that come with...
I think if using the "bolt handle drop" method of headspacing, you may need to remove those parts, but I think you can also get a regular headspace gauge set (go-no go), or just use a dummy cartridge and check bolt closure, or screw the barrel in by hand til it just feels resistance against the cartridge/bolt, and perhaps a certain back-off. After doing it the first time, perhaps with gauges, it should be apparent. A witness mark after the first time it's set up right may be a simple way also.
Your barrel may have instructions on how Savage reccomends doing it.
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat." -Theodore Roosevelt-
Isnt it amazing how many people post without reading the thread?
Oh, if you have guages it's not needed? The kit comes with two guages. So I should be fine. I am sure the directions will show the way.
If this is too easy, it may get addictive - I bookmarked that site that sells the refurbed barrels - interesting that they use remington, etc. barrels...
I did a little more reading - apparently, the refurb barrels are shortened about an inch, rechambered, the muzzle is recut with an 11 degree target crown and the threads are cut on a lathe.
Many of them apparently are also like-new take-offs from rifles having custom barrels installed....
Drat, I was hoping it was another one due to this:
(NOTE: Due to family illness, no orders for barrels, kits or other items can be taken at this time. Enjoy the articles, and check back soon for more info on barrels and other equipment specifically for F-Class shooting.)
I looked there for a 7.62x39 a little over a year ago and emailed in case the page hadn't been updated. They said they still weren't taking orders, etc.
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits.
-Mark Twain
Proverbs 3:5; Philippians 4:13
Got to have a Jones for this
Jones for that
This running with the Joneses boy
Just ain't where it's at
I googled "Remington switch barrel" and came up with a few different things to look at. It's been a topic on a number of forums over time. It looks like guys have been doing it for a while, just isn't all that well known apparently. One thread said Pac-nor would do barrels and nuts. Some bench and varmint shooter have hand torqued barrels to switch, no nut. Looks like trueing the action and bolt may be worthwhile for best accuracy when doing a switch barrel on non-savage actions.
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat." -Theodore Roosevelt-
Isnt it amazing how many people post without reading the thread?
And after you get into these savages and extra barrels, stocks, swapping tools, and go no-go gauges the $12 for access to the classified ads is a TRUE bargin. I have two duraMAXX stocks on guns I got from a guy for less than $100 for the pair. My most accurate savage is a 308 with a barrel I bought for $20. Bunch of good guys on there too. Each year the Pennsylvania boys get together and have a savage shoot in June and it is a hoot, cept the one guy thought shooting at little lollipops a 100yds would be fun, that did add a little stress to the day(but I got 3 of the 5 with 5 shots ). I told you it was accurate!
Tom
a Pennsylvanian who has been accused of clinging to my religion and my guns......Good assessment skills.
I opened up the stock channel to allow for the new phat barrel. Used the new barrel as a sanding block - wrapped some coarse sandpaper around and within a few minutes, had it opened enough to allow for the barrel to float.
I tried making some wood barrel blocks and applying rosin to hold the barrel but it slipped... I was hoping to avoid purchasing a barrel block but I have one coming from Midway...
Shouldn't need a barrel block. Make a pair of action blocks and clamp the receiver right up at the front by the nut. All the force is in the nut not the barrel. You may need a large mallet to break the nut loose.
Jeremy
GySgt USMC Ret
To err is human, To forgive is devine, Neither of which is Marine Corps policy Semper Fidelis
The directions said to clamp the barrel =- that's why I was doing it that way. The receiver....hmm, I will go back and take a look - I can always return the $50 barrel block gizmo...
I know of a guy that just took 2 blocks of pine put them in his vice and drilled a one inch hole between them. That is what he uses as his action blocks works great.
Jeremy
GySgt USMC Ret
To err is human, To forgive is devine, Neither of which is Marine Corps policy Semper Fidelis
JReed wrote:I know of a guy that just took 2 blocks of pine put them in his vice and drilled a one inch hole between them. That is what he uses as his action blocks works great.
You know, I've tried that now -twice - once with the barrel (must spun around =- even with rosin) and then with the receiver which torqued and crushed the pine.
Try some penetrating oil on the nut. Savage uses some nasty grease on the threads that dries out and makes it a bear to get off. If not the smith sounds like a good idea.
Jeremy
GySgt USMC Ret
To err is human, To forgive is devine, Neither of which is Marine Corps policy Semper Fidelis
