howdy folks,
i need some help here. let me explain. someone posted on this site (i think) of a tang sight made by tarus for theit 22 pump that is a copy of the winchester pump. well knowing that that sight will fit many winchester models i ordered two. looks like a copy of the marble sight. put one on my henry lever 22. then decided to put the other on a marlin 94. will my observationis that if the front part of the base is cut off and the rear part is cut off just forward of the mounting hole it looks like the base on a marble sight for a marlin m-94. no problem just figure out where to drill new holes and cut the part off that is not needed. NOW HERE IS WHERE I NEED THE EXPERTICE FROM THE KNOWLEDGABLE FOLKS ON THIS SITE. this base is so hard a drill bid will not cut it. it will not take a center punch either and a carbide cutter in a dremel will slowly cut but not much.
my question-- what is this base made of? and what will drill it? is it made from powdered metal of something of the sort? can it not be drilled. i feel sure i am not the first one to encounter this. has anyone else encountered this and if so what did you do. guess i could install it with gorilla glue but that really is not an option. sure hope someone has a easy solution to my delima.
thanks
little doc
levergun tang sight
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Little Doc
- Levergunner 1.0
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2007 3:15 pm
- Location: Indian Territory
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Chuck 100 yd
- Advanced Levergunner
- Posts: 6972
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 8:52 pm
- Location: Ridgefield WA. USA
I've adapted this sight to four different rifles so far. I decided to try them when I saw them for sale online for about $30 compared to over $100 for the Marbles which they are a very close copy of. You're correct, they are one very tough piece of steel but they can be drilled and ground & shaped. For drilling, aside from a good quality punch to mark the hole, spend a couple of extra bucks for a good high speed drill bit (Brownells has them) or a high speed cobalt bit. Don't take the "high speed" label literally as high rpm's will generate a lot of heat in this steel and wreck the bit almost immediately (the voice of experience speaking). You don't want to use them at much over 1,200 rpm's and use cutting oil while drilling. When shortening the part of the base you no longer need and reshaping it, use a bench grinder or disc sander with course grit. When it gets too warm to hold, dunk it in a cup of water and let it cool down before resuming. I finished up by polishing the edges with a Dremel tool and cold blued it. It was a lot easier to do than this long winded description sounds but worth the effort. It's a very precise, click adjustable copy of the Marbles at 1/4 the cost. Just remember to work at low speed and avoid heat buildup. Hope this helps
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Little Doc
- Levergunner 1.0
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2007 3:15 pm
- Location: Indian Territory