Another Mosin Nagant question

antilley · Post by **antilley** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:59 pm

I plan on picking up the Mosin Nagant this week (ordered from Buds) and we are planning on shooting the thing this weekend. I see all of the collector value questions, but really all we wanted was another inexpensive gun that would be fun to shoot out to 100 yard targets... am I missing the boat by thinking we should just clean the thing up and go shoot it?

(I told my boy we would put the Bayonet on it and start whistling the Deliverance tune if the rude guy shows up again and starts shooting at our targets...... )

Pisgah · Post by **Pisgah** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:28 pm

You ain't missing a thing. Believe me, if there were any collector value to the rifle you've bought, you would have paid for it! Folks are getting pretty cagey about the rarer/more desireable variants these days. 99%+ of the ones on the market have been re-arsenaled so many times that they are pure mongrels, very good shooters but not much in the collector department. Shoot it, and enjoy!

Oh, and experiment shooting it with and without bayonet in place (and take along a hammer so you can get the %$#@! bayonet off again!). Conventional wisdom is they shoot tighter, and closer to the sights, with bayonet on -- but I have found the opposite to be true with mine. Both shoot much tighter without the bayonet, although one required a higher front sight to get a useable zero. Fortunately, fabricating and installing a new front sight is dead easy.

JB · Post by JB » Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:41 pm

Yes, just make sure the bore and chamber are free of any grease and go shoot it. I disagree that it won't ever have any collector's value, but it wouldn't be enough to keep me from enjoying the rifle.

TMair · Post by **TMair** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:44 pm

I have been thinking of getting two or three of these for me and my sons to go play with, and for them to hunt with.
The more info the better.
Thanks
Terry

win38-55 · Post by **win38-55** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:54 pm

I have 4 Mosin Nagant rifle's in my collection and I would shoot anyone of them at any time.
They are very fun to shoot and the price is not bad either. Plus you can actually shoot real
centerfire cartridges for less than .17 cents each that in itself is a reason to go blow off some rounds.

Stan in SC · Post by **Stan in SC** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 6:02 pm

Mosins are wonderful shooters.One thing to remember when you buy ammunition for them is that there are basically two types of milsurp ammunition.There is light ball which is usually 147 grain bullets and there is heavy ball which is usually 174 grain bullets.They shoot to different points of aim so if you are shooting too high then you are shooting the heavier ammo and if you are shooting too low then you are shooting the lighter stuff.The heavier ammo hits higher since it leaves the barrel later than light ball.Most people think the opposite is true.
Always spray Windex or a 50/50 mix of water and ammonia down the barrel after shooting to get rid of the hydroscopic salts from milsurp primers.Also wipe the bolt head off with some of that mixture.I have two Mosins.One was made in 1943 and the other in 1944.They are two of the most accurate shooting rifles I own.If you get a model 91/30 and need to adjust the sights here is a little goodie to help you do that.
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/mo ... /index.asp

Stan in SC

t.r. · Post by **t.r.** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 6:55 pm

I no longer own this Mosin but the photos illustrate that a sporting rifle transformation is certainly achievable.

These are sturdy and accurate rifles. The safety is awkward but rest of the rifle is excellent for hunting.
They do recoil heavily; about like a 30-06. I recommend a LimbSaver pad.

TR

mklwhite · Post by **mklwhite** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:31 pm

antilley wrote:I plan on picking up the Mosin Nagant this week (ordered from Buds) and we are planning on shooting the thing this weekend. I see all of the collector value questions, but really all we wanted was another inexpensive gun that would be fun to shoot out to 100 yard targets... am I missing the boat by thinking we should just clean the thing up and go shoot it?

(I told my boy we would put the Bayonet on it and start whistling the Deliverance tune if the rude guy shows up again and starts shooting at our targets...... )

My second MN from Classic Arms should be coming this week. I look forward to seeing it in hopes it is as good as the one I purchased from them before. That one is a very clean, very nice rifle that could have been made in 2009 not 1929. Shoots very well too. All matching numbers. Very nice. With that said I consider it a collectible/historic hunting/working rifle. I don't have any safe queens and don't want any. The first one shoots great without the bayonet. Didn't actually have it with us when we went shooting with it... have to do that next time. The bayonet may fit extremely tight. That's not unusual, you could always polish the interior of the ring on the bayonet to help a bit with that. Hope you are as happy with yours as I have been with the first I bought from Classic.

TMair · Post by **TMair** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:57 pm

t.r. wrote:

I no longer own this Mosin but the photos illustrate that a sporting rifle transformation is certainly achievable.

These are sturdy and accurate rifles. The safety is awkward but rest of the rifle is excellent for hunting.
They do recoil heavily; about like a 30-06. I recommend a LimbSaver pad.

TR

Dang now thats a good looking rifle, this just makes me want to get some all the more!
Terry

Post by **Ysabel Kid** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:01 pm

antilley wrote: (I told my boy we would put the Bayonet on it and start whistling the Deliverance tune if the rude guy shows up again and starts shooting at our targets...... )

model55 · Post by **model55** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:34 pm

My last trip to the range my Mosin Nagant had a group with three rounds in a cloverleaf pattern it was my last rounds of the day and I had to pick my jaw off the ground when I saw it.I am now a Mosin Nagant fan-took four rifles but I'm hooked now.

txpete · Post by **txpete** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:39 am

it just starts with one then look out.91/59,M38,M44,M91 and 91/30's start stacking up.

make sure you take the bolt apart and clean out the cosmo.

http://www.surplusrifle.com/finnishmosi ... /index.asp

ammo.these guys are good to deal with.

http://www.aimsurplus.com/catalog.aspx?groupid=40

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx? ... ant+Rifles

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlRG-Afa ... re=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKO3IJ4c ... re=related

for clean up after shooting milsurp ammo I just use hot water with a squirt of dawn dish soap.scrub the bore bolt ect and flush it out with just clear hot water.dry with a few patches then use some CLP or hoppes #9.I have never had a problem with rust.

I got hooked on these rifles by chance.there was a guy that had a add in the thifty nickle 7.62 rifles 45.00.he was a ffl and was selling guns out of his garage.I went over and bought a tikka M91 for 45.00(1990) and he gave me some ammo to go try it out.
we went to a friends ranch and tacked up a paper plate on a old tree at about 80 yards.I fired a 3 rd group and when we check the target I had 3 rd's touching with milsurp ammo and iron sights.

.
M39's back then were 100.00 with a hang tag.I paid 140.00 for for my M27 and 175.00 for my M28/30 ect ect.my russian 91/30 sniper will clover leaf at 100 meters with my handloads.
there is no cure for mosin disease

Combat Diver · Post by **Combat Diver** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 12:44 am

Go for it and enjoy. I've been shooting these two for years. Picked up the Polish 1953 dated M44 in Germany back in 89' and started reloading for it then as surplus ammo wasn't that common. Few years later picked up this 91' 1904 Tula modified to a Scout Rifle. Old Bushnell Phantom scope didn't hold up and replaced it with a red dot a few years ago.

CD

olyinaz · Post by **olyinaz** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 1:00 am

txpete wrote:I got hooked on these rifles by chance.there was a guy that had a add in the thifty nickle 7.62 rifles 45.00.he was a ffl and was selling guns out of his garage.I went over and bought a tikka M91 for 45.00(1990) and he gave me some ammo to go try it out. We went to a friends ranch and tacked up a paper plate on a old tree at about 80 yards.I fired a 3 rd group and when we check the target I had 3 rd's touching with milsurp ammo and iron sights. .

M39's back then were 100.00 with a hang tag.I paid 140.00 for for my M27 and 175.00 for my M28/30 ect ect.

STOP. You're killing me.

I missed the boat on most milsurp stuff and it really galls me. Dang stuff is ALL expensive these days...'cept the good old Mosin!

Oly

txpete · Post by **txpete** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:28 am

last weekend I went to the gun show here in belton.beater M1's 1000.00 M1 carbines 750.00 and up

the US stuff has gone nuts.I saw 1 30/40 kraig for 495.00 and it was clean.
speaking of mosins this show has always had a bunch of them I only saw 1.a 1946 M44 izzy nothing special and it had 189.00 on it.the last two shows I have gone to I haven't seen any M38's or 91/59's.

Noah Zark · Post by **Noah Zark** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:54 am

Gunsmith and author Roy Dunlap did extensive testing on WWII military bolt action rifles following that war, intentionally blowing up guns and examining the results.

The top two strongest bolt actions?

1) Japanese Type 99
2) Mosin Nagant

Honorable mention:

3) 98 Mauser
4) 1903 Springfield

Noah

awp101 · Post by **awp101** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:57 am

Noah Zark wrote:Gunsmith and author Roy Dunlap did extensive testing on WWII military bolt action rifles following that war, intentionally blowing up guns and examining the results.

The top two strongest bolt actions?

1) Japanese Type 99
2) Mosin Nagant

Honorable mention:

3) 98 Mauser
4) 1903 Springfield

Noah

I believe Mr Ackley found the same thing as well.

mklwhite · Post by **mklwhite** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:08 am

Just got mine in yesterday and thought I would mention my quick first impressions on the difference between the 1928 Izzy and the 1933 Tula (that I just got). The Izzy has a lot better wood. The Tula has a weird very dark wood insert right behind the trigger housing and a repair area just in front of the mag area. The Tula also has some of that dark stain/putty/resin (?) spot smaller than a dime on the right and in front of the bolt area. Wood wise Izzy has it beat. Now on to the metal. Both have very good (like new) barrels and actions. The Tula does not look quick as "pretty" as the Izzy HOWEVER the Tula cycles like greased glass. Very smooth. Loading (from a stripper clip) very smooth in the Tula. The Izzy is alright, a bit harder to open and close the bolt and much harder to load with stippers (this is true with my Izzy M44 as well, though it cycles easier and has had a harder life so I'm not too surprised by the cycling being better). So in mu final breakdown I think that the 91/30 Izzy is prettier to look at, but the 91/30 Tula is better to actually "use". I look forward to a shooting session. If the Tula shoots as good as the Izzy I'll be a happy camper.

jcw · Post by **jcw** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:23 am

Clean it up, get it checked out and go shoot it.

Stan in SC · Post by **Stan in SC** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:51 am

And then somewhere along the line you discover The Finnish Mosin Model 39 and THAT is when you discover accuracy in a Mosin.I won my club's annual shoot this year in January with my 1944 dated Sako manufactured model 39.

Stan in SC

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:32 am

mklwhite wrote:The Tula has a weird very dark wood insert right behind the trigger housing and a repair area just in front of the mag area. The Tula also has some of that dark stain/putty/resin (?) spot smaller than a dime on the right and in front of the bolt area.

Does it have a SA in a box stamped on the barrel shank? Or a "D" stamped on the barrel shank?

I know the Finn's used that type of repair on the wood, but have not seen it used on refurbed Russian ones.

Steve

mklwhite · Post by **mklwhite** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 1:51 pm

After a quick look I did not find a SA or a D stamped on the barrel. There is are several small (quite small) markings though on the barrel, I just didn't see any of those though.

Old Time Hunter · Post by **Old Time Hunter** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:02 pm

Tear 'em down and soak all the iron in a parts cleaner (or clean heavily with brake cleaner), wash all the furniture with oven cleaner until all the old finish is off, rinse with hot water and let dry. The next day or so, wipe on some BLO...a couple of coats after letting each coat dry, then a coat or two of Casey's stuff, followed by a good coat of wax. Oil all the metal stuff real well, clean the bore...put it all back together, stand in the middle of a barn and see how often you can hit the inside of the barn!

JB · Post by JB » Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:51 pm

SteveR wrote:
mklwhite wrote:The Tula has a weird very dark wood insert right behind the trigger housing and a repair area just in front of the mag area. The Tula also has some of that dark stain/putty/resin (?) spot smaller than a dime on the right and in front of the bolt area.

Does it have a SA in a box stamped on the barrel shank? Or a "D" stamped on the barrel shank?

I know the Finn's used that type of repair on the wood, but have not seen it used on refurbed Russian ones.

Steve

You'll sometimes find the Russian arsonal refurbished guns with stock repairs as well. I've owned several with heel splices or spots with spliced in repairs.

Combat Diver · Post by **Combat Diver** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 5:50 am

for some good MN info

http://7.62x54r.net

CD

txpete · Post by **txpete** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 6:20 am

I have shot every barn in my area and scored hits from the inside not a problem.

cast loads are a hoot.

antilley · Post by **antilley** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:30 am

I am afraid to go back to the 7.62 forum as I actually stripped the gun and put a stain back on it.... hope to shine it up this next weekend. I HAD no idea that doing this violated my agreement to carry around and make a shooter out of gun that was both ugly and had deep embedded cosmoline that really bothered me ....

To the purists I apologize.... but, at this point in my collection each gun is a shooter and will be cleaned up and cared for like I think they should be ....

If it helps any the gun is cleaner but not that much better looking as I told the wife I would NOT spend any more money on this gun and use things out of the garage vs. trying to do some custom looking job. I will post pictures this weekend.

Thanks for all the advice in the thread ... it was very helpful.

Idahoser · Post by **Idahoser** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:59 pm

Stuff you know if you have an AK
Stuff you know if you have an AR
Stuff you know if you have a Mosin Nagant

http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinHumor.htm

antilley · Post by **antilley** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 2:29 pm

ROFL .... greatness.

Thanks for sharing.

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:54 pm

mklwhite wrote:After a quick look I did not find a SA or a D stamped on the barrel. There is are several small (quite small) markings though on the barrel, I just didn't see any of those though.

It also may be a Spanish Civil War fix, but with these guns the mystery makes it fun to collect them.

Steve

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:56 pm

JB wrote:
SteveR wrote:
mklwhite wrote:The Tula has a weird very dark wood insert right behind the trigger housing and a repair area just in front of the mag area. The Tula also has some of that dark stain/putty/resin (?) spot smaller than a dime on the right and in front of the bolt area.

Does it have a SA in a box stamped on the barrel shank? Or a "D" stamped on the barrel shank?

I know the Finn's used that type of repair on the wood, but have not seen it used on refurbed Russian ones.

Steve
You'll sometimes find the Russian arsonal refurbished guns with stock repairs as well. I've owned several with heel splices or spots with spliced in repairs.

I know that the Russians used wood to do stock repairs, what we were talking about was the resin/puddy fill that is commonly used by the FDF.

Steve

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 4:02 pm

antilley wrote:I am afraid to go back to the 7.62 forum as I actually stripped the gun and put a stain back on it.... hope to shine it up this next weekend. I HAD no idea that doing this violated my agreement to carry around and make a shooter out of gun that was both ugly and had deep embedded cosmoline that really bothered me ....

To the purists I apologize.... but, at this point in my collection each gun is a shooter and will be cleaned up and cared for like I think they should be ....

If it helps any the gun is cleaner but not that much better looking as I told the wife I would NOT spend any more money on this gun and use things out of the garage vs. trying to do some custom looking job. I will post pictures this weekend.

Thanks for all the advice in the thread ... it was very helpful.

Ted the owner of 7.62x54r.net is pretty adamant about following the rules. It is collector site and not a lenient as mosinnagant.net. But lots of really good information at both sites.

Steve

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 4:23 pm

Old Time Hunter wrote:Tear 'em down and soak all the iron in a parts cleaner (or clean heavily with brake cleaner), wash all the furniture with oven cleaner until all the old finish is off, rinse with hot water and let dry. The next day or so, wipe on some BLO...a couple of coats after letting each coat dry, then a coat or two of Casey's stuff, followed by a good coat of wax. Oil all the metal stuff real well, clean the bore...put it all back together, stand in the middle of a barn and see how often you can hit the inside of the barn!

I like the original finish, as it is shellac and very, very easy to take care of. If scratched just use some alcohol on a rag and work the shellac to cover the scratch or scrape. Seems a lot of work doing all that stripping and putting BLO on and not even getting a better finish.

Steve

pricedo · Post by **pricedo** » Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:54 am

My Mosin 7.62x54 was bought new in the grease imported from the Polish Arsenals some 15 or so years ago.
It was a "dust around" gun safe coach potato for a few years.
As a winter project I replaced the fence post military trigger (you had to be as strong as Schwarzenegger just to pull the old trigger....no wonder the Poles never won too many wars

) with a Timney set at 2 pounds & relocated the bolt handle & mounted a solid Picatinny scope rail on the gun......not one of the flimsy "Mickey Mouse" mounts you see advertised on Amazon....... a "for real" rail that will hold a scope rock solid under recoil.
A second generation 3-9x40mm Redfield (economy line Leupold) 4-plex scope meant for my Mosin is enroute & should arrive any day.
I was thinking of putting a $2500 Swarovsky on the gun but decided against it.

I have yet to see how it will perform with both military surplus, commercial soft point & reloaded ammo. I have a set of RCBS dies for it.
I'm told the Mosin is accurate..........I will soon find out.

**Many don't know that Timney now makes a dedicated trigger group for the Mosin Nagant..........they do.

Old Time Hunter · Post by **Old Time Hunter** » Wed Mar 30, 2011 7:52 am

SteveR wrote:
Old Time Hunter wrote:Tear 'em down and soak all the iron in a parts cleaner (or clean heavily with brake cleaner), wash all the furniture with oven cleaner until all the old finish is off, rinse with hot water and let dry. The next day or so, wipe on some BLO...a couple of coats after letting each coat dry, then a coat or two of Casey's stuff, followed by a good coat of wax. Oil all the metal stuff real well, clean the bore...put it all back together, stand in the middle of a barn and see how often you can hit the inside of the barn!
I like the original finish, as it is shellac and very, very easy to take care of. If scratched just use some alcohol on a rag and work the shellac to cover the scratch or scrape. Seems a lot of work doing all that stripping and putting BLO on and not even getting a better finish.

Steve

Better to whom?

No more ruskie finger prints on mine or smelly cosmoline embedded in the wood.

antilley · Post by **antilley** » Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:44 am

I know it is a religious debate.... Different strokes for different folks. I respect both sides of the argument.

Like going to a car show .... some folks like to see original cars / restored back to new condition including the thread used in a seat. I go and look for the 57 Chevy with a Big Block ... Ford rear end .... ladder bars and the biggest blower you can find. Both are neat for opposite ends of the spectrum. Neither are wrong , neither are right.

The road goes on forever and the party never ends. Funny how the stock Mosin looks more like a rat rod though

(had to get one jab in)

pricedo · Post by **pricedo** » Wed Mar 30, 2011 3:32 pm

TMair wrote:
t.r. wrote:

I no longer own this Mosin but the photos illustrate that a sporting rifle transformation is certainly achievable.

These are sturdy and accurate rifles. The safety is awkward but rest of the rifle is excellent for hunting.
They do recoil heavily; about like a 30-06. I recommend a LimbSaver pad.

TR
Dang now thats a good looking rifle, this just makes me want to get some all the more!
Terry

A thing is what it is.
A model 92 is a model 92, a 700 is a 700, a 870 is an 870, a Westley Richards is a Westley Richards & a MILSURP is a MILSURP.
I like my MILSURP guns dressed for battle like they were designed & built to be.
My Mosin still has its bayonet in place & is indistinguishable from an in-service battlefront Mosin except for the relocated bolt handle, the Picatinny scope rail & of course the Timney trigger.
I have a couple of furniture guns with gorgeous walnut stocks, scrolling, engraving & the whole 9 yards.
The Mosin was designed as a fighting gun & was never intended to be purty.
Stripping the military hardware off a MILSURP & trying to dress it up in fancy wood is like dressing George Forman in a ballroom gown, nylon stockings & high heels......it just doesn't look right.

t.r. · Post by **t.r.** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:44 pm

Everyone has an opinion about my (former) customized MN rifle. It sold FAST which means it was priced right and there was much interest. My custom rifle handled better than the original; lighter, too!!

The bolt should be slapped hard, like a Russian Mail Order Bride. Just kidding!!

TR

pricedo · Post by **pricedo** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:28 am

Closing side-note:
I see Mosins with the factory fence post triggers shooting some pretty tight groups. It'll be interesting to see what mine will do with the Timney trigger group installed & set to a crisp 1.5 pound pull weight.
My Mosin wasn't a half shot out MILSURP with it's best groups behind it when I bought it.............it was a still-in-the-grease & oil paper brand spanking new gun.
I have a 3-9x40mm "second generation" Redfield (little league Leupold) scope mounted on it with a securely fastened Picantinny rail & not one of the cheap, tinny mounts ordered from the backwaters of Amazon on-line books that will shoot loose before the first half dozen rounds are fired.
I had to relocate the bolt handle to attach the mounting rail.

Stan in SC · Post by **Stan in SC** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 6:46 pm

A 1-1/2# trigger pull is a bit on the dangerous side isn't it?

Stan in SC

antilley · Post by **antilley** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 9:15 pm

Shot it this last weekend (Winchester 180 gr) .... loved it.

but, we are going to shorten it ... keep the stock .... and put a scout scope on the dovetail (lucky my rear site was not brazed)

Just a picture to show you we are getting started.... still need to get some lapping compound.... but it is a start.

pricedo · Post by **pricedo** » Sat Apr 16, 2011 7:54 am

Stan in SC wrote:A 1-1/2# trigger pull is a bit on the dangerous side isn't it?

Stan in SC

With all due respect ........I'll be the judge of that.

All depends on what you're used to & what you can safely handle.

I like light triggers & shoot better & tighter with rifles that have trigger pulls set from 1 - 3 pounds.

I'm a LEO & I'll stack my shooting experience & safety record (perfect) up beside that of anybody else on this board.

I'm not in the habit of working or playing in a wantonly reckless manner with firearms that aren't completely safe & reliable.

Of course it's dangerous that's why I did it.........it's part & parcel of being STUPID !

SERIOUSLY:
If the trigger is set up wrong then slam fires become a possibility & that is dangerous.

I like my triggers light but they're set up right & the gun won't fire until the trigger is directly pulled.

Not taking care to control your barrel direction & not taking care to keep your finger out of the trigger guard until your ready to shoot IS DANGEROUS whether your trigger is set to 1.5 pounds or 15 pounds.

The most effective gun safety is the one between your ears.

Post by **Hobie** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 4:49 pm

You might notice I combined your posts. There's no need to repeat when you can edit and delete your own posts.

mulegunner · Post by **mulegunner** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:27 am

I have 2....a 91/30 and a M44.....you cant beat em for ruggedness and function. I found the safety a little cumbersome for deer hunting, but they are made to shoot. I think I paid a $100 each. The 91/30 had some wicked pitting in the rifling but with jacketed bullets it does ok. The M44 was shiny brand new looking. The fireball out of that 44 lights up the range like Christmas!!

Old Ironsights · Post by **Old Ironsights** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:35 am

antilley wrote:Shot it this last weekend (Winchester 180 gr) .... loved it.

but, we are going to shorten it ... keep the stock .... and put a scout scope on the dovetail (lucky my rear site was not brazed)

Just a picture to show you we are getting started.... still need to get some lapping compound.... but it is a start.

Been there done that.

Now I've just got to shoot it... (though I really want to get some good Irons back on it...)

2571 · Post by **2571** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:02 pm

Pisgah wrote:You ain't missing a thing. Believe me, if there were any collector value to the rifle you've bought, you would have paid for it! Folks are getting pretty cagey about the rarer

Buddy bought a Westinghouse from a Dunhams' franchise sporting store last month.

$89; store clerk told him he could pick and choose from the 5 they had in the showcase. Kid seemed to think my bud was being ill-advised to take the dirtiest rifle in the bunch and even swithched the slings to give him a nicer one off another rifle.

shawn_c992001 · Post by **shawn_c992001** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 10:42 am

Dunham's S.G. carries M-N's? Hmmmm........one just opened here locally, and since I have been wanting a M-N for I while now, I have a reason to got check them out!

yooper2 · Post by **yooper2** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 11:22 am

When I was 18 an M91-30 was my only centerfire rifle. I think I paid all of $35 for it and I got to go through a crate that had maybe 2 dozen in there and pick the one I wanted (read that: one that had the best bore). I hunted everything that can be found up here with it and surplus corrosive FMJ ammo, taught me a lot about the value of neck shots. A Mosin will never be accused of being a pretty rifle but they work no matter what. Regardless of what you decide to do to them they are a true bargain. Mine has been serving me faithfully for 16 years now and if the weather is doing something horrible it is still my first choice.

Eric

rossim92 · Post by **rossim92** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 11:43 am

my son has one and shoots the snot out of it! It is very accurate with just the iron sights. the ammo is cheap enough, but is corrosive. My son wipes the barrel out with windex after cleaning. the ammo is corrosive and windex helps counter the effects. Ammoman.com has ammo for it in bulk and cheap!