Completely Off Topic .... bicycle questions

[J Miller]

I hate to walk. I'd rather ride my bike. My MD had been bugging me about loosing weight and walking for exercise, but I just don't feel like walking. So I'm thinking of riding my bike. Problem is my ancient (1971) vintage 10 speed needs quite a bit of work and I'm not getting to it. Plus I want more gears. Years ago I got to the point I could push that bike so hard I really needed more gears.

Now I've come up with a link to a bike trailer courtesy of my friend in AZ that has me intrigued. http://www.bobgear.com/trailers/

What I need to know is what is a durable, strong, reasonable quality bike with lots of gears (21?) that a normal (limited income) person can afford? I've seen these "mountain" type bikes for anywhere from several hundred to well over a thousand dollars and that's way over my limit.

So anybody got any ideas?

Joe

[madman4570]

Theres so many Joe?
I'm a Cannondale guy and new their pricy but (you can find them on Ebay used pretty cheap?)
My very favorite bike I have of 7 was a used one bought from a doctor on Ebay(1994 XL red Cannondale M700 for $125)Love that bike.And I have some expensive bikes.
Put a Spongy Wonder seat on it and good to go
Dont get to hung up on the having to have 21 speeds.
Big thing is make sure the bike fits you.
Probably for the buck---a Trek 830/930 or similar on up would do ya!
Trek makes good stuff for the money.
Though a road bike is faster on the road the Mountain types are more durable and getting in shape wise every mile on a mountain bike(need to do 2 on a thin tired/high pressured very light road bike)

[madman4570]

have bought from these guys------good results! Came fast/crated perfect/not a mark on it!
Though I normally insist on at least Deore components as the min however---(for the buck)and thats what were talking here----
One that is brand new below (shipped) $259 to you is not a bad deal(Motobecane makes good stuff) for a List price $500 bike?
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mot ... T_sale.htm

Best new Ebay price I see is still $10 more but has good photos of bike!
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2010-ALUMINUM-M ... 0422387164


How its rated-------------
http://www.bestcovery.com/motobecane-300ht

[klhill]

I have both mountain bikes and road bikes but often prefer to ride the mtn bike on the street.I have one set up with high pressure slicks instead of the knobby off road tires.With the upright riding position it is more comfortable to ride and not much slower than the road bike.You should be able to find a nice used TREK for maybe $250-$500. Depending on your height/inseam you may be looking for a 19" frame. Look on the 'net or have someone help you fit it (seat height & position etc).

[Whit Spurzon]

As was mentioned before FIT is key.

I"ll also second the Mountain Bike recommendation.

Craig's list is a good place to find bargains. I"ve equipped my bike riding family with 90's vintage (still American made) TREK 930 level and better bikes for under $200 each. I like the mid-90's models the best, good tubesets, better geometries, interchangeable parts.

[Blaine]

Joe, better get a used, cheap one and see if you're gonna stick to it before sinking in the big bucks. WallyWorld has some 200 buck bikes, but I don't know if they are any good or not. I got a Trek Navigator"2" and it's not bad.

[JB]

Unless you buy used, you're probably going to have to spend around $500.00 for "decent" bike. To get a bike that will shift smooth and hold up to harder riding, you're talking $1,000 and up. Those 21 speed Walmart bikes shift rough and won't hold up. Buying used would be a great way to get your feet wet.

[awp101]

Craig's list is a good place to find bargains.

That's where The Old Man got his. Had to drive a little to get it but it was less than half the cost of a new one IIRC.

Might even find a trailer there as well.

[madman4570]

Or?
Located in Chicago
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/1957057075.html

$200 Think new they are around $800-$900?

[J Miller]

Whit mentioned that the mid 90s Trek bikes were still made in the USA. When did they farm them out? What's the difference besides point of manufacture?

madman4570,
That one doesn't look too bad.

Blaine,
I used to ride my bike around Phoenix a lot. I found that many times I could make better speed than if I were driving my truck. Everybody said I was crazy and would get run over. Well, I may be crazy, but I never did get squished.
I like bike riding. Right now I'm just exploring options and getting info on a newer bike. My old bones may not be able to handle that old hard riding skinny tired 10 speed any more.

Besides tires, and break pads, hand getting the rear wheel bearings and gear innards greased I've also got to get a new front fork for it. Many summers ago I was riding with my cousin when I caught a bucket handle through the front wheel. I found out real quick that now matter how fast I flapped my arms I could not fly. Landed face down on my chest, and hands on Arizona summer hot asphalt. Sprained wrists, bruised and maybe cracked ribs, and my poor bike had the forks bent back to the frame.
Eventually I healed and straightened the forks. I rode the bike for another 20 years like that then it got put away. During that time I put on a lot of weight. So now I really do not trust that straightened fork. But, can I find a replacement for a 39 year old Japanese made C-Ito bike? That ... is the question.
I suppose I should get to asking it.

Joe

[Hobie]

I have a Giant Rincon. 21" frame which is good on the road, not quite so good on the trails. Would prefer a 19" for trail riding. I'm 5' 8" with 29" inseam. Got it many years ago with good components (shifters etc) and it is still in good shape. It is a whole other hobby. Wife has one but won't ride. I need to get back out there. I suggest looking for a good (per the other suggestions) used bike. Try it out before you lay down the cash.

The economy is down. We recently auctioned a bike I had won (23" frame) and got a whole $25 for it. I'd had it several years and could never get a buyer. This was a $800 bike with all the goodies. Frame was too big. Probably donated to the people from whom I won it (in a raffle) because it wouldn't sell.

[Blaine]

I just can not see riding a current style bike that has your rump up as high or higher than your head, and then all the weight is on your arms....I remember when a mountain bike was designed for comfort, and not balz to the wall racing. My Trek Navigater is a "comfort" bike and a more upright riding position. 21 speeds, and if I wanted to do some light trail riding, it's fine for that. Current thinking is that a mountain bike will be jumped and generally thrashed around all the time...not this fat old guy

[madman4570]

Trek Navigater-----
They are also a very good bike and would serve Joe very well!
Blaine does make a good point.
I do have to wear special leather gloves with bladders in the palms to aid with the hands going numb on long rides!

[Blaine]

Trek Navigater-----
They are also a very good bike and would serve Joe very well!

Well, they're only stress tested for 500 pounds..... So..... (please notice the smiles, Joe)

[J Miller]

Trek Navigater-----
They are also a very good bike and would serve Joe very well!

Well, they're only stress tested for 500 pounds..... So..... (please notice the smiles, Joe)

Gads I hope NEVER!!!.

My old 10 speed was sort of a level bike. My posterior was at the same height as my hands. I still had to lean forward a bit but it wasn't too bad. I agree though that the rump up, head down idea is not for me.

Joe

[Whit Spurzon]

Whit mentioned that the mid 90s Trek bikes were still made in the USA. When did they farm them out? What's the difference besides point of manufacture?
Joe

TREK has always had some foreign made bikes in their line-up. The USA made higher end steel bikes were phased out sometime in the late nineties. Steel's popularity was at a low eb then. They also made the higher end Aluminum and OCLV (carbon fiber) bikes in the USA. In reality the quality is very similar regardless. Sort of like the replica Colt or Winchesters made in Italy or Brazil. Still I'd rather have a 'merckin' made one.

I'm a "Steel is Real" kind of a guy. I've owned and raced OCLV (TREK 5000 series, Gary Fisher Procaliber LTD), Aluminum (Cannondale CAAD 3) and Steel bikes (Stock Trek mountain bikes, Custom Teesdale, Serotta road and John Waite track frames) bikes and all had pluses and minuses. Being a "heavy" (my racing weight was 180#) rider and a sprinter I preferred a stiffer frame. The early OCLV's weren't up to it. The C'dale was an AWESOME sprinting road bike and very light weight. Durable so long as you could avoid crashing it... Replaced it with a Teesdale custom steel Reynolds 853/True Temper OXIII (if I remember correctly) and could never go back to a stock frame/geometry again. On the Velodrome weight matters less and John Waite built me a tank that I was able to set my personal best times in the Kilo, Flying 200 and Pursuit on in my late 30s - way past my prime. I sold my Fisher OCLV Procal frame and bought three steel TREK 970's with the $. It was a great bike but I was never a good enough mountain bike racer to justify having a bike that expensive. Converted one of the 970's into a Single Speed / Fixed Gear (WAY fun when you're in shape), used another for racing (last race was 1999) and made the other into a touring bike... Used to have as many bikes as I have Marlins at least a Race bike, a Trainer Back-up for each discipline I was into, plus a touring bike and a Tandem. Down to three mtb's a touring bike, a road bike and a Co-Motion custom Tandem now. If I road them as much as I shoot I'd probably be at least forty pounds lighter...

I even made it into a movie as a bike rider way back when.

Me (far right, front, red/yellow Cannondale) in the scene that Sandra Bullucks husband gets killed in the movie "Practical Magic." Even got paid and fed for it!

[Streetstar]

Trek Navigater-----
They are also a very good bike and would serve Joe very well!

Well, they're only stress tested for 500 pounds..... So..... (please notice the smiles, Joe)

Gads I hope NEVER!!!.

My old 10 speed was sort of a level bike. My posterior was at the same height as my hands. I still had to lean forward a bit but it wasn't too bad. I agree though that the rump up, head down idea is not for me.

Joe

LEt us know your height and inseam and many of us on here can likely get you in the ballpark of what to look for from a size perspective. For instance, I am 5'8" with a 31" inseam, I ride a 53cm road bike and a 17" mountain bike (17" is usually considered a medium if the bikes are sized S,M,L, XL ) --- but if you are over 6'0" tall, you dont even want to look at a Medium bike .
Another factor will be the length of the top tube, which determines your reach to the bars. A competition oriented bike will be longer in this area, and less comfortable for most people with more than 12% body fat.
A trail bike will have a shorter top tube, the bars will be a little higher, and will be a lot more comfortable.
I was stuck in Baltimore a couple of months ago and i was bored in the evenings, so i browsed the Craigslist (i finally got a road bike), but i found many good bikes in the $200 - $325 range. I limited my search to Cannondale brand bikes, as their large diameter aluminum frames are lighter and stronger than a lot of steel frames in that price range. Cannondale also was made in USA exclusively until last year, so all the bikes i looked at were red, white and blue to the core (if you ignore the Japanese made Shimano components and Italian Modolo handlebars, etc.)

I get as excited about bicycles as i do leverguns. I raced USCF and NORBA (NAtional road and mountain bike sanctioning bodies) events for many years, but now that i am an out of shape insurance adjuster, my needs have changed, and the bikes i ride today are far different than the race machines i rode in years past. I couldnt make it 3 miles on one of my old bikes because my knees would continually hit me in the belly --- , So on both my later model road and mountain machines, the tops of the handlebars is roughly level with the height of my seat , and the seat is adjusted so my legs are extended to 90% of their length on the downstroke ---- like you said, with everything level, i still have to lean forward a bit, but leaning forward takes some of the pressure off my butt and is more comfortable than sitting upright with 230+ pounds bearing straight down

I'm rambling on a bit, but bikes are one of those things that can sometimes be easy to find good deals on if you know your size. Many people start an exercise program, buy new gear, and then fail after 3 months for whatever reason. 10 years later, when they are tired of looking at it and it has fallen over against the car a few times, people put the $700 pedal horse on craigslist for $250 just to get rid of it

[Streetstar]

[/quote] On the Velodrome weight matters less and John Waite built me a tank that I was able to set my personal best times in the Kilo, Flying 200 and Pursuit on in my late 30s - way past my prime. [/quote]


Which v'drome? (guess thats getting off topic) . I still ride a lugged steel Waterford with heavy gussets behind the bottom bracket (similar to 3Rensho's) -- I just came to the realization that getting old sucks and i dusted the poor thing off and have been hitting the Superdrome occasionally . Main focus is dropping some pounds, but it is in the back of my head to go to Masters Worlds in 2 years. I was stoked when i hit a 12.3 flying 200 with a michelin man physique, but a 500 or kilo? Forget it (thats why my target goal is in 2 years -- its much more realistic for me)

[El Chivo]

I have always gotten the cheapest Raleigh bike ($200) and have no complaints. My first one logged about 7,000 miles and my latest has been going strong for 8 years. I have commuted to work or school, in snow and rain, etc., and I ride them pretty hard.

There must be a bike shop nearby where you can pick something up today.

[2571]

I ride an older LeMonde. Athletic daughter rides 2009 Bianchi road bike even in olympic triathalons.

Forget Walmart. Buy used 'quality' bike rather than new chinee thing.

Get fitted at a bike store.

I like roadbike.com. Good advice there (& several shooters among community). There will be arguments there for and against the brand names suggested here.

I lost 100# one year on a bike.

[J Miller]

Streetstar,

Will have my wife measure me.

El Chivo,
There is at least three that I know of and one that sells used bikes out of his garage. (I'll take my thermometer to check if they are hot or not. )


I do not remember how much my C-ITO 10 speed cost, it was a Christmas present from my mom. But it's got untold thousands of miles on it and I've had it 39 years. It's steel and heavy for a 10 speed and I've got dual baskets on it.
It's also longer than most of the "mountain bikes" I've looked at. It's much more comfortable to me considering the length. I'm going to get it torn down then go to the local shops to see if I can find a new fork for it. While I"m there I'll check the others out.

Joe

[Marc]

I am also a firm believer in buying a good quality used bike. There are just to many out there that were never used hard. That said, both my and my wife's full suspension bikes were bought new. They were previous years models and both were deeply discounted. A dealer will also often change components such as stems to give you a more upright position and cranksets to fit you better. It can be worthwhile to check out the dealers for that reason.

For street riding I agree with a mountain style bike with short top tube and street slicks. I don't consider a suspension to be necessary for a street bike. My road bike has a rigid frame and is just fine. Wide mountain tires will give you a smoother ride anyway.

You can probably buy a new fork for the old bike. They were fairly standard on a lot of bikes.

[Rusty]

I rode a Cannondale T500 to and from work every day for 7 years till I had a run in with a pick up truck going 26 MPH on a downhill.

[madman4570]

Good Shape Trek in Chicago ($50)

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/1957627593.html

Joe,
Stand up straight against the wall with your sneakers on and place a hard cover book(rounded binding side) right up tight between your legs against your crotch and have the wife measure from the floor to the top of that rounded books binding which one end will be sticking out.
You can then call the person selling that bike and ask them what the measured distance is from the floor to the top of the top tube.Normally they like around 1" excess unless you plan using it for more offroad stuff.

Even if its a little more than that it can be compensated with some seat elevation,but if its top tube is beyond what you can get you feet to ground even with some toe lift (thats too high,dont buy it)

But if its a medium and you normally take a large "for $50" who cares if its even close.raise the seat couple inches.If you can get with the bottom pedal on the downstroke having your knee just slightly bent and the seat post doesnt have to be raised to the point of it being unsafe(she will do) Good Luck!

[J Miller]

madman,

I emailed them asking that question. My wife said I'm around a 29" inseam but she had to run off to work before we could hunt up a round ended book.

Joe

[madman4570]

God I hope that one works, cause that will be a find pal!
Prayers up!

[Whit Spurzon]

"Back in the day" I raced weekly at Marymoor with trips to Portland (Alpenrose - way better track IMO) and Vancouver BC (Burnaby 200 meter track! WAY FUN! and Victoria is awesome too!).

THE most fun you can have that close to PUKING!

Streetstar, agreed, the Killermeter, er kilometer is a nasty race. Too short to pace, too long to go all out. 12.3 in the 200 is pretty darn good! ~59 kph! Sounds like you have some fast twitch in them frogs. Curt Harnett has (had?) the track record at Marymoor - that dude has got some quads! He rode by me like I was standing still even though I had my personal best 200 time. I think the dude could spin 92" at 300 rpm without breaking a sweat. He probably could have kilo'd me right off the line but waited until turn 4 to gap me and beat me by what seemed like a mile.

What is your specialty? Mine was Match Sprints (Chess on Bikes) but managed to get a few results in Points Races, Kilo, Olympic Sprints and Team Pursuit (Group Suffering).

Sold my Waite Frame to a bike messenger chick in Seattle. Saw it a few years ago. She painted it. I bet that thing still has a few medals in it. Awesome bike, ESP response, solid as a rock and could shoot a gap like an arrow. Deserved a way better rider than me...

Back on topic. JMiller, if you find a mid nineties MTB that fits with Shimano LX components for ~$200 in good shape it would be a good deal and a bike that will likely withstand the abuse you could give it. My recommendation is to buy a good frame with a good wheelset, everything else is pretty easy/inexpensive to replace/upgrade. I'd avoid suspension bikes as to get the good stuff usually requires shelling out big dinaro and unless your doing hard core offroad stuff is wasted.

On the Velodrome weight matters less and John Waite built me a tank that I was able to set my personal best times in the Kilo, Flying 200 and Pursuit on in my late 30s - way past my prime. [/quote]


Which v'drome? (guess thats getting off topic) . I still ride a lugged steel Waterford with heavy gussets behind the bottom bracket (similar to 3Rensho's) -- I just came to the realization that getting old sucks and i dusted the poor thing off and have been hitting the Superdrome occasionally . Main focus is dropping some pounds, but it is in the back of my head to go to Masters Worlds in 2 years. I was stoked when i hit a 12.3 flying 200 with a michelin man physique, but a 500 or kilo? Forget it (thats why my target goal is in 2 years -- its much more realistic for me)[/quote]

[Whit Spurzon]

madman,

I emailed them asking that question. My wife said I'm around a 29" inseam but she had to run off to work before we could hunt up a round ended book.

Joe

I"m a 30" and can comfortably fit a 16-18" MTB frame. Ride a 52-54cm road/Track frame.

[J Miller]

God I hope that one works, cause that will be a find pal!
Prayers up!

5:28 - Reply = "It's gone"

Phooey!

Joe

[J Miller]

Whit,

I'm not really looking for a mountain bike, but those do have some features that look good to me. Fat tires for one.
My old bike has Shimano gears on it, been there since day one. I do so like them. Got some wear on the derailleurs now though, but they still work.
I'm really looking for a good sturdy easy riding bike for mostly road use, but who knows where I might go with it.

Joe

[madman4570]

Joe,
A mountain bike for the right price fitted with these or similar will roll quite easy.
http://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Bicycle-Bla ... B001VA8QPE

Also even if the seat has to be raised quite a bit(if the price was extremely right)
along with that you can go to a bike shop if need be and get a cheap used riser handlebar which would even out butt/head height ratio if so required.

Also forgive me about mentioning the expensive type bikes.I somtimes get carried away and get off track talking about myself more than the facts at hand! For that I apologize friend
Should be about You and not how many bikes I own!

[J Miller]

madman,

No problem talking about your bikes. I'm used to it. My brother collects and restores old Schwinn racing bikes. He's probably forgot more about bikes than I ever knew. Not sure he knows anything about this kind of bike though.

Joe

[jeepnik]

First, I'll second Giant. I'm on my third. They didn't wear out, but I wanted an upgrade each time. Second, as to fit. It's been mentioned, but in order to get it right, you really need to be "fit" by a knowedgable person. A few measurements taken off a website recommendations won't cut it. Also, once you decide on a bike, it has to be setup right, again, it has to be done by someone who knows what they're about. What I'm getting to is, find a bike shop. Don't buy the first one you see.

Here's the thing to understand, "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR". Buy a cheap bike, and that's what you've got, cheap. It won't last, it won't fit right, and you will not be comfortable. More importantly, you can do some pretty painful injury to yourself if you ride an improperly fitting bike. Knees, ankles, wrists, shoulders, back, and here's the really important one "GROIN" injuries can occur. Oh, and if you are riding, and you get a numb feeling in your groin, get off that bike right then and there, I don't care if it's only a block to the finish, get off the bike, trust me, I KNOW.

[madman4570]

madman,

No problem talking about your bikes. I'm used to it. My brother collects and restores old Schwinn racing bikes. He's probably forgot more about bikes than I ever knew. Not sure he knows anything about this kind of bike though.

Joe

That would be maybe OK Joe, " if it was only my bikes".
Tell ya what friend, if I start ranting too much on stuff just tell me to "shut up"

[Blaine]

First, I'll second Giant. I'm on my third. They didn't wear out, but I wanted an upgrade each time. Second, as to fit. It's been mentioned, but in order to get it right, you really need to be "fit" by a knowedgable person. A few measurements taken off a website recommendations won't cut it. Also, once you decide on a bike, it has to be setup right, again, it has to be done by someone who knows what they're about. What I'm getting to is, find a bike shop. Don't buy the first one you see.

Here's the thing to understand, "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR". Buy a cheap bike, and that's what you've got, cheap. It won't last, it won't fit right, and you will not be comfortable. More importantly, you can do some pretty painful injury to yourself if you ride an improperly fitting bike. Knees, ankles, wrists, shoulders, back, and here's the really important one "GROIN" injuries can occur. Oh, and if you are riding, and you get a numb feeling in your groin, get off that bike right then and there, I don't care if it's only a block to the finish, get off the bike, trust me, I KNOW.

Dammit, Jeep.....We all TOLD you not to ride nude.....

[madman4570]

First, I'll second Giant. I'm on my third. They didn't wear out, but I wanted an upgrade each time. Second, as to fit. It's been mentioned, but in order to get it right, you really need to be "fit" by a knowedgable person. A few measurements taken off a website recommendations won't cut it. Also, once you decide on a bike, it has to be setup right, again, it has to be done by someone who knows what they're about. What I'm getting to is, find a bike shop. Don't buy the first one you see.

Here's the thing to understand, "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR". Buy a cheap bike, and that's what you've got, cheap. It won't last, it won't fit right, and you will not be comfortable. More importantly, you can do some pretty painful injury to yourself if you ride an improperly fitting bike. Knees, ankles, wrists, shoulders, back, and here's the really important one "GROIN" injuries can occur. Oh, and if you are riding, and you get a numb feeling in your groin, get off that bike right then and there, I don't care if it's only a block to the finish, get off the bike, trust me, I KNOW.

Dammit, Jeep.....We all TOLD you not to ride nude.....

With the Spongy Wonder Seat "never will get a numb groin from riding"and the clothes can stay on
I ride 125 miles per week on a Hoped up suto type Mountain Bike and its the only bike seat I will ever sit on! (if it dont have it/wont ride it) look at the stainless/neopreme work of art.check the video!
http://www.spongywonder.com/OurBikeSeats.htm#SeatPosts
http://www.spongywonder.com/Content/ima ... rame_c.jpg
http://www.spongywonder.com/Content/ima ... penter.jpg

[spaceman spiff]

First, I'll second Giant. I'm on my third. They didn't wear out, but I wanted an upgrade each time. Second, as to fit. It's been mentioned, but in order to get it right, you really need to be "fit" by a knowedgable person. A few measurements taken off a website recommendations won't cut it. Also, once you decide on a bike, it has to be setup right, again, it has to be done by someone who knows what they're about. What I'm getting to is, find a bike shop. Don't buy the first one you see.

Here's the thing to understand, "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR". Buy a cheap bike, and that's what you've got, cheap. It won't last, it won't fit right, and you will not be comfortable. More importantly, you can do some pretty painful injury to yourself if you ride an improperly fitting bike. Knees, ankles, wrists, shoulders, back, and here's the really important one "GROIN" injuries can occur. Oh, and if you are riding, and you get a numb feeling in your groin, get off that bike right then and there, I don't care if it's only a block to the finish, get off the bike, trust me, I KNOW.

I own a Giant as well. IMHO there's not a better bike for the money.

spaceman

[jeepnik]

First, I'll second Giant. I'm on my third. They didn't wear out, but I wanted an upgrade each time. Second, as to fit. It's been mentioned, but in order to get it right, you really need to be "fit" by a knowedgable person. A few measurements taken off a website recommendations won't cut it. Also, once you decide on a bike, it has to be setup right, again, it has to be done by someone who knows what they're about. What I'm getting to is, find a bike shop. Don't buy the first one you see.

Here's the thing to understand, "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR". Buy a cheap bike, and that's what you've got, cheap. It won't last, it won't fit right, and you will not be comfortable. More importantly, you can do some pretty painful injury to yourself if you ride an improperly fitting bike. Knees, ankles, wrists, shoulders, back, and here's the really important one "GROIN" injuries can occur. Oh, and if you are riding, and you get a numb feeling in your groin, get off that bike right then and there, I don't care if it's only a block to the finish, get off the bike, trust me, I KNOW.

Dammit, Jeep.....We all TOLD you not to ride nude.....

I knew you were looking.

[RIHMFIRE]

Joe, better get a used, cheap one and see if you're gonna stick to it before sinking in the big bucks. WallyWorld has some 200 buck bikes, but I don't know if they are any good or not. I got a Trek Navigator"2" and it's not bad.

+1

[El Chivo]

and remember Joe, if you fall off, get right back on immediately.

[J Miller]

and remember Joe, if you fall off, get right back on immediately.

I haven't fallen off a bike in decades. But yes, always get back on. At least get back on if the bike ain't broke.

Joe

[Griff]

This forum never ceases to surprise & delight me. I have only ridden for basic transportation & fun. Every time I go home I look at my bike hanging up in the garage with dry-rotted tires, seat & handlebar pads and guilt washes over me... But in reviewing the priority list, it seems to fall between the cracks.

Although a Japanese make from the early seventies, it's the top-of-the-line model Nishiki road bike. At some ridiculously light weight chro-moly frame, titanium axles, crank, h-b riser & aluminum alloy seat riser, h-bar, brakes, pedals & rims were only bested by the carbon fiber a few years later.

I rode regularly into the early '80s when I had a bad crash while still recovering from a knee surgery due to another wreck on a M-C several years earlier. Wife talked me outta continuing to ride and sold her bike. Woulda sold mine except my bud still had it in his shop getting fixed.

Me & wife after 12 mile ride to the parent's house in '73.

That bike isn't my Nishiki but the one I traded in on it. Wife is on her Nishiki, so this musta been early '73 after mine was ordered, & while before the gear & component upgrades were done.

Thanks for reminding me of something else I've put off till I'm fat & old!

[J Miller]

Griff,

I'm working on getting mine torn down so I can look for a new fork.
I've got the parts I need, "IF" they are not dry rotted, to get it back on the road otherwise.

I know what you mean about the guilt factor. I think it hits all of us.

Joe

[Hobie]

Griff, you've been hiding the missus for a reason!

BTW, you can get those components upgraded and new tires, doncha know...

We have a local race (or used to) that combined a run, canoe down river and bike ride. Unfortunately, when I was in good condition, it was always in conflict with Uncle Sam's schedule.

[Griff]

Griff, you've been hiding the missus for a reason!
BTW, you can get those components upgraded and new tires, doncha know...

Nov. will see our 40th anniversary, and someimes to keep a good thing you have to hide it!

Yeah, tires, tubes, seat are easy. Strippin' cleaning & re-greasing all the bearings, pivots cables, etc.; new pump, toe baskets, then carrying the ¾ mile to the closest paved road would wear me out!

Getting a carrier and mounting it behind the cab would be great; but weather's highly unpredictable, plus security is an issue... maybe next spring!

Remember the #2 great caveat of life: "...never put off until tomorrow what can be put off until the day after!"

[Blaine]

Remember the #2 great caveat of life: "...never put off until tomorrow what can be put off until the day after!"

You Betchum, Red Ryder....

[Bullard4075]

"Oh, and if you are riding, and you get a numb feeling in your groin, get off that bike right then and there, I don't care if it's only a block to the finish, get off the bike, trust me, I KNOW."

This was mentioned (some in jest) a couple of times but it is serious.
An improper seat can pinch off bloodflow to certain parts (IMPORTANT PARTS)
of the male person and the damage can be almost immediate and permanent.

http://www.4-men.org/erectile-dysfuncti ... seats.html

Hope this link isn't to racy for this forum.

[Blaine]

Hope this link isn't to racy for this forum

.

I'm sure the terms of behavior would not dicktate censure for health topics.