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I bought a Trapdoor Springfield a while back and I'm looking to start loading. I looked at drop tubes and thought they were asking too much so I made my own. Brass was $6.00 and the o-rings were $.25 each the rest I had. The base is half inch thick plastic sheet I found. I haven't tried it yet I still need to get black powder.
I dug out all my old Mike V. articles and reread them, but any other advise is welcome.
I bought some 535 gr. Postell bullets, and I have the wads used in the BP pistols. And I found some magnum primers.
I'd like to use black powder not a substitute. John
Your trapdoor may not like those postells to well, they're just a bit long and heavy for the twist. My neighbor and I have had good results using the RCBS 82084 bullet in his trappdoor.
You can go with the 500 gr round nose and get along quite well. Buffalo Arms has a 500 gr rndnose mould of their own make thats supposed to drop at .460, should be a trapdoor shooters dream come true. There's no flies in the ointment with the 405 gr bullets either.
70 grs of Goex Cartridge with a .030 fiber wad and either weight of bullet works well.
65 grs of Grafs 2f with everythinge else also works quite well.
Magnum primers really don't do much for you,except for I have had some razzledazzle groups when using large pistol magnum primers along with RP nickle cases.
Ordinary largerifle primers work as well as any.
If you don't get anything to group with those magnum primers, might want to punch some newspaper wads to set over the flash hole before dropping the powder charge.
I agree with Don McDowell, I had poor accuracy with magnum primers while others say that`s the way to go.
The only way to know what your rifle likes is to try it.
OK, after ignoring this "obvious" question for several years now, I have to ask.
Why does one need such a long drop tube for loading black powder? Is it super flaky, or does it have to be very tightly compressed to ignite properly, or both?
I for one shouldn't be answering this, but I believe it's for compaction. You can't get a full load of blackpowder into the cartridge unless you settle it some how. Plus, most compress the load with the bullet or with a compress die before seating the bullet. Goex, usually likes some compression. Where as Swiss doesn't seem to need it. Again, I shouldn't be one answering this as I don't have the experience. Just a lot of lurking. I have a Shiloh Sharps and I need to start loading black for it.
JohndeFresno wrote:OK, after ignoring this "obvious" question for several years now, I have to ask.
Why does one need such a long drop tube for loading black powder? Is it super flaky, or does it have to be very tightly compressed to ignite properly, or both?
You don't really need it unless you are trying to produce the most accurate load possible. It's used for long range loads because the granules of the blackpowder aren't consistent in size and produce dust or fines so the burn rate will vary just slightly. The drop tube insures a more consistent stack up of the grains and fines.
Venturino has a great book about loading BP "Shooting Buffalo Rifles of the Old West"
I ran a test with a .40-65 case and 24" drop tube and Goex 2F black. You can get 14% more powder in the case using a drop tube as apposed to just dumping it in. That and about 1/8" compression gave me the most accurate loads and with the greatest velocity in my Browning BPCR.
With the irons I have shot an 11/16"
five shot group at 100yd. and several under 1".
The best Bullet I have used in it was the 400gr. RCBS.
Have fun!!
My trapdoors like the Lee 459-405HB-FN sized to .460. Still work'n on the BP substitute stuff that'll work in all my trapdoors, works fine in all but one, the case sticks in the chamber after firing. I use Pyrodex RS, 62 grains, .030" veggie wad...no drop tube, just tap the loaded cartridge on the bench 10 times before putting the wad in. Drops the powder from about 3/16" from the rim to about 3/8", compressed the rest of the way with the bullet. I just loaded another 20 cartridges with just 57 grains of RS and another with 70 grains of Goex FFg for comparison. Don says in an earlier post that RS is 1/2 again more potent (pressure wise), theoretically they should be equivelant. 62 grains of RS is pushing the 405 gr (drops at 420) a bit over 1400 fps out of the carbines, I want closer to 1300 fps out of 'em. The rifle I would like to see around 1350 fps instead of 1470+ fps. The factory loaded "Black Dawg" Goex (tumbled like all get out, bullet is only .4575" dia!), only came out of the carbines at 1175 fps and the rifle at 1233 fps.
By the way, a "cheap" drop tube is two 12" large diameter straws put together and duct taped to plastic funnel....not the prettiest site, but works.
nobearsyet wrote:I just got into the blackpowder game wit ha pedersolli sharps in 45-110, and this seems to be close to no topic so I'm going to ask it here, can one shoot 45-70 safely through a 45-110 chamber? I just discovered 45-110 brass is 65 per 20 pieces, I ca n2 boxes of loadd 45-70 around here for that
I do know people that shoot 'em in their 45-90's, but have not run across someone shooting them in their 45-110's. My guess is that it is possible, but the chamber or rifling lead would be subject to eventual damage.
Loaded .45-70 and .40-60 Marlin with BP, but nothing else. Just never got into BP shooting much. In fact I've never made or owned a drop tube so far. MAybe I need to get more serious, but that might take the fun out of it!
My trapdoor loves the 500 grain round nose Govt. I use a drop tube for 70 grains of FFg, I use a .030 vegetable wad and this load is compressed. I also use BR2 primers. You all may remember this Was ScottT's load for Big Nose Kate. It works great in my Trapdoor. Best of luck.
Mike Johnson,
"Only those who will risk going too far, can possibly find out how far one can go." T.S. Eliot
Drop tubes really aren't necessary. You can achieve a fair amount of powder settling by just pouring the powder slowly thru a funnel into the case.
Compressiong dies are really only necessary if you're trying to put extra powder into a cartridge, and using bullets cast from 20-1 or softer. I ran a test a while back 10 rounds each everything identical except half the test were compressed before seating a bullet the other half the wad was placed in the case and the bullet seated. At 270 yds you had to know which bullet made which hole to tell which were compressed loads and which weren't. All 20 shots fell into the same group.
YOu can fire 45-70 in the longer chamber. To do so will result in miserable accuracy, severe leading, and possible pitting of the chamber if done for very long. Best to simply go to Cabela's web and order the Norma 45 basic brass, or order up some of the starline.
