MUST READ - Long Term Storage of Firearms

[JohndeFresno]

Please read this stuff, for quite obvious reasons!

Long term storage of guns - relatively short, MUST READ. Mentions Brownell's Triple Tough Bags and Rust Blox combination for great long term protection of firearms in storage.

Where to get long term gun storage bags and tablets
If the above link doesn't work simply log on to: http://www.brownells.com ...and look in their cleaning supplies tab, then enter "Triple Tough" in the search box.

Storage bags and tabs for 12 long guns, 12 handguns currently comes to just a tad over $100.00 from Brownell's, at least if you are a registered customer.

Prices will suddenly go up and/or supplies will dwindle very soon, I betcha! (Borrowed that last word from my beloved choice of Vice President ).

[Old Ironsights]

Storage is fine... being able to make your own is better.

http://www.thehomegunsmith.com/index.shtml

Buy the books NOW while you still can.

[mescalero1]

Printed that, thanks

[Griff]

Thanks, may have to upgrade for my 94s.

[JohndeFresno]

Thanks, may have to upgrade for my 94s.

er... How do ya make a '94 full auto??

[Modoc ED]

Just how many guns would you put in long-term storage? Perhaps 2 handguns and 2 long guns? And don't forget about long-term storage of ammo. We have to remember that we would want almost instant access to those guns and ammo.

Would you want to deep conceal a handgun and a few rounds of ammo in your vehicle so you would have access to a firearm no matter where you are? You could hide it on top of the transmission between the transmission and the hump in the floor boards etc..

[AmBraCol]

Thanks, may have to upgrade for my 94s.

er... How do ya make a '94 full auto??

Full auto is easy, select fire is the hard part in a lever gun. JM Browning made up a full auto 73, a 94 would work the same. Use a flapper at the end of the muzzle to actuate the lever and a spring to push it back closed and a set screw to push the trigger. All it takes is a bit of work. BUT, once you press the happy button there's no going back 'til you run out of ammo. Plus it's a bear to reload that tube magazine, no such thing as a quick mag switch...

[Retro]

BUT, once you press the happy button there's no going back 'til you run out of ammo. Plus it's a bear to reload that tube magazine, no such thing as a quick mag switch...

Sorry to rain on your parade, but if TSHTF, ammo's going to be more scarce than guns, so you might want to un-convert your full autos to somewhat more select... use

Get a levergun and learn how to use it...

[JohndeFresno]

Ya got me. I was just kiddin' ! I would never dream that somebody would try to make a levergun into a full auto. I learn something every day on this site.

[Old Ironsights]

Ya got me. I was just kiddin' ! I would never dream that somebody would try to make a levergun into a full auto. I learn something every day on this site.

Seems to me that the original "Potato Digger" was essentially a belt fed, air cooled levergun...

Yep.

Filed for patent in early 1890, the M1895's operating mechanism was Browning's first patent for an automatic rifle; previously he had been working on lever action rifles for Winchester such as the Winchester 1886. The M1895 uses a unique operating mechanism, which is quite similar to that of a lever action rifle. The earliest prototype developed by Browning in early 1889 was a .44 caliber black powder cartridge rifle, weighing under 12 pounds, which was capable of firing 16 shots in under one second. Operation was via a lever located under the barrel, which operated the action when swung downwards. The lever was actuated by the muzzle blast operating upon it.[1]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M1895_Colt ... achine_gun

[AmBraCol]

BUT, once you press the happy button there's no going back 'til you run out of ammo. Plus it's a bear to reload that tube magazine, no such thing as a quick mag switch...

Sorry to rain on your parade, but if TSHTF, ammo's going to be more scarce than guns, so you might want to un-convert your full autos to somewhat more select... use

Get a levergun and learn how to use it...

You're not raining on MY parade. A question about the possibility of converting a 94 to full auto was made. I merely observed that it is POSSIBLE. Not practical, but POSSIBLE. As for full autos, I've never owned one, don't see a need for one. I'm more of the "One shot, one kill" mentality and WAY AWAY from the "spray and pray" crowd. As for leverguns - yeah, they're good. But so's a bolt action, a pump, a semi-auto, a single shot or even a muzzle loader (my current "big gun" 'cause it's the only thing I can obtain legally here). Anyway, I was merely observing that it's POSSIBLE to convert a levergun to full auto. Not that it's practical or even desirable. It's MUCH less work than attempting to convert a bolt action (except maybe a straight pull) into full auto. The key is using the excess muzzle gases that produce all that lovely muzzle blast to push a lever forward which will actuate the lever. A spring ensures return and a set screw trips the trigger. Easy. Not practical, but easy (relatively speaking that is)

[AmBraCol]

Ya got me. I was just kiddin' ! I would never dream that somebody would try to make a levergun into a full auto. I learn something every day on this site.

Yep, ol' Browning came up with a LOT of ideas, many of which never went into production and others that live on today even better than when he came up with them.

[Grizz]

back on topic a little; rather than a gun case, think about using heavy pvc pipe with welded on end caps. with enough ballast so it cannot float. this makes something that can be buried or sunk or set into sonotubes or keyed foundations or up tall trees or inside light poles, etc. not your lightpoles, ones elsewhere. maybe in the bottom of a septic tank... use your imagination. gun cases are dead giveaways and not really waterproof...

if a simple vaccuum chamber can be built to evacuate most of the atmosphere before welding the end cap on, then the arms couldn't corrode much if at all.

[JohndeFresno]

I mentioned the special wrapper and tabs, as sold by Brownell's, because I worry about the temperature changes and the resultant rust from condensation. I once left a shotgun in the trunk of my car (by mistake) and it started rusting over a winter weekend.

[mescalero1]

El Paso, Texas 1968, went dove shooting one morning.
We all ( 4 ) of us had our shotguns in the car in the ( then ) brand new plastic gun cases with foam inserts.
Stopped at Denney's , ate lunch, went home and all of our shotguns had started to rust from humidity and heat.
2 1/2-3 hours maximum! what a shock!

[Retro]

As for leverguns - yeah, they're good. But so's a bolt action, a pump, a semi-auto, a single shot or even a muzzle loader

Yea. I mentioned leverguns because (1) of the URL for this forum (2) because they're my favourite kind of rifle and (3) because they're handy, fast, and IMO a good bad times choice.

It's MUCH less work than attempting to convert a bolt action (except maybe a straight pull) into full auto.

Yup, levers or pumps are probably the easiest to convert, if you want the flapper system JMB started with. Or even a gas tube.

A friend has a 22 bolt rifle where if you don't close the bolt fully it's semi. Hafta stufy that design.

if a simple vaccuum chamber can be built to evacuate most of the atmosphere before welding the end cap on, then the arms couldn't corrode much if at all.

"Nature abhors a vacuum".

I'd be more inclined to pressurise the container with a few bar of CO2 or Nitrogen from a MIG welding cylinder.

[AmBraCol]

if a simple vaccuum chamber can be built to evacuate most of the atmosphere before welding the end cap on, then the arms couldn't corrode much if at all.

"Nature abhors a vacuum".

I'd be more inclined to pressurise the container with a few bar of CO2 or Nitrogen from a MIG welding cylinder.

Good idea, and if you apply a good preservative (such as an ATF/Lanolin combination) prior to placing in storage tube, so much the better. ATF/Lanolin can be applied fairly heavily (depending on the amount of lanolin) and is easily, quickly wiped off, unlike RIG and other such heavy preservative compounds. Or, like I've done in the past, you can store wood and metal separate and cover the metal in 10w30 or 20w50 or whatever your heart desires (ATF is another good choice, perhaps even better but I've never had a chance to use it yet for long term storage) Then you just pull the metal from the preservative oil, wipe it down with a rag and assemble with the wood and you're good to go. There are many ways to achieve the goal of long term storage of fire arms. I've had to do it many times over the years since my work as a missionary takes me out of the country for long stretches at a time. Another simple idea is to wrap the metal parts in cotton strips (from yard sale bedsheets), pour your choice of preservative all over them, slip them into a garbage bag which is then wrapped tightly around them to press out the air, then slip into another garbage bag and wrap it all up with your choice of tape (packing box tape will work, as will duct tape or anything else that will compress the multilayers of plastic and help purge air). Then several guns can be placed in a drum or other storage container. The cotton and plastic keep them separate and prevent scratching and dinging. The cotton "wicks" the oil all around the metal. The garbage bags keep the oil pretty much in one place (rather than dripping all over your storage) and the tape makes it all relatively compact. A carefully used box cutter will allow you to cut the layer of tape down to the first layer of plastic. Unwrap, wipe down, reassemble and you're good to go. Purging the oxygen with CO2 or other inert gas might be a good idea too, maybe someday I'll give it a try.

[Grizz]

using inert gas like argon would be good and probably better than a vaccuum.

co2 not so much, it's the oxygen that causes rust and I don't believe it's stable enough and inert. I think argon is the way to go and easier to achieve.

wwll ships that were mothballed were sealed and the O2 pumped out.... a vaccuum. the steel inside stayed pristine for the entire time, twenty years in the case of my former boat, so vaccuum is feasible and proven technology.

[Modoc ED]

Nitrogen (used in scopes to prevent fogging) works well. If using PVC pipes and caps, tap one of the caps and insert/screw in two air valves (the kind used on cars, etc.). Take the valve stem out of one of them and purge the air out of the tube with Nitrogen. Once full of nitrogen and while still filling, re-insert the valve stem and install the valve cap on both valves.

[Grizz]

Nitrogen (used in scopes to prevent fogging) works well. If using PVC pipes and caps, tap one of the caps and insert/screw in two air valves (the kind used on cars, etc.). Take the valve stem out of one of them and purge the air out of the tube with Nitrogen. Once full of nitrogen and while still filling, re-insert the valve stem and install the valve cap on both valves.

that works but I'd be worried about the valve corroding and failing, say in an under saltwater hide. plus I'd worry about breaking the valve off in shipping or some such. I'm familiar with the valves because I used them in refrigeration engineering; you can get that kind and they have a brass cover with an o-ring. but they're still vulnerable.

ps about the pvc pipe hide: remember to make it longer enough that you can cut the cap off without cutting your gun too !!