More shop time - epoxy beading compound is your friend- pics

[O.S.O.K.]

Well, decided to do some refinements on a couple of recent projects. One, my 94 winchester 30-30 AI needed some final fitting/bedding - buttplate and buttstock to receiver.



The butt plate was a pretty good fit but still had some small gaps and these were filled with the black epoxy bedding compound (Pro 2000 bedding compound).



The stock to receiver fitting was much more challenging for me and resulted in some gaps between the stock and receiver. Enough that the stock had a slight amount of play in it - not good. So, I applied the release agent to all metal contact points and the epoxy bedding goo to the wood. It now has solid contact all the way around and looks better too. It wasn't really that noticeable but it bugged me nonetheless. The epoxy actually shows up more contrasty in the pics than it does in
'real life'. I am very pleased with it.

The other bedding project was on my 94 Swede sporter - I'd fabricated a butt plate for it but it wasn't making complete contact with the stock and it was also just a tad too large and so I ground a little bit more off and refinished and then applied the release agent and epoxy and placed the plate back on - it now has solid contact and fits the stock very closely.



Again, please share your shop projects. I've learned a lot from reading other's posts on their home gunsmithing projects and thought I'd share some of mine - thus this and previous "shop time" posts.

[AJMD429]

That looks really good!

That may inspire me to try and fix a couple of stocks like that.

[O.S.O.K.]

Thanks - which one the swede or the m94?

[J Miller]

Not only can bedding epoxy be used to fix stock and forearm problems it can make really good repairs on revolver grips. Some years ago I bought a nice set of Ruger XR3-RED grips. I didn't see that the ferrel on the right side had been pulled through. It didn't take long for the grips to loosen up and then they were useless.
So I finished pulling the ferrel through and then epoxied the damaged area and the ferrel hole up. I put a washer coated with anti-seize between the two halves and clamped them together with a padded c-clamp. When the epoxy had cured I sanded the back side, redrilled the holes and it's all better now.


I've got another set that needs the same treatment. I've added it to my "Round-To-It" list.

Joe

[O.S.O.K.]

nice job - that's what I'm talkin about. I like saving perfectly good stuff with "issues". I've had grips do that too - its really quite easy to screw them on too tight and get that kind of damage.

[J Miller]

nice job - that's what I'm talkin about. I like saving perfectly good stuff with "issues". I've had grips do that too - its really quite easy to screw them on too tight and get that kind of damage.

Cary Chapman of CLC Custom Grips
{ http://www.clccustomgrips.com/ } includes a small 1/2" aluminum spacer for #6 screws with his custom grips. This prevents the ferrels from pulling through if you over tighten the screws.
I've found these at the local True Value hardware store for $0.55 and bought enough for all my Rugers.

Joe

[marlinman93]

I use Brownells Acraglass Gel mixed to match the wood for a lot of wood repairs. I've repired big chips by carefully fitting a new piece of wood to the chip and then epoxying the piece into the stock. If you're careful the gap around the repair is so small that the repair will not show without pointing it out.
It works really good on those wrist cracks or splits too, as a razor knife will slice out the cracks and then a sliver of wood can be inserted with the epoxy and the repair will be stronger than original, and unseen. It's always better to save an old original stock, than to make a new one.

[O.S.O.K.]

I use Brownells Acraglass Gel mixed to match the wood for a lot of wood repairs. I've repired big chips by carefully fitting a new piece of wood to the chip and then epoxying the piece into the stock. If you're careful the gap around the repair is so small that the repair will not show without pointing it out.
It works really good on those wrist cracks or splits too, as a razor knife will slice out the cracks and then a sliver of wood can be inserted with the epoxy and the repair will be stronger than original, and unseen. It's always better to save an old original stock, than to make a new one.

[marlinman93]

OK! Well some of the guys have seen this one. A model 1888 Marlin bag of parts that I bought last spring, with no stock. Since you can't buy replacement stocks for the 1888's shorter lower tang, I fitted a model 1894 semi inletted stock that I got from Leverdude (Ken) to the 1888. Had to fill the longer lower tang with a wood plug, and bed the plug with Acraglass, then I rust blued the gun and assembled it.:

[J Miller]

Just a comment.

I can't get over how strangely odd a top eject Marlin looks.


Joe

[J Miller]

Well, decided to do some refinements on a couple of recent projects. One, my 94 winchester 30-30 AI needed some final fitting/bedding - buttplate and buttstock to receiver.




The stock to receiver fitting was much more challenging for me and resulted in some gaps between the stock and receiver. Enough that the stock had a slight amount of play in it - not good. So, I applied the release agent to all metal contact points and the apoxy bedding goo to the wood. It now has solid contact all the way around and looks better too. It wasn't really that noticable but it bugged me nonetheless. The apoxy actually shows up more contrasty in the pics than it does in
'real life'. I am very pleased with it.


Again, please share your shop projects. I've learned a lot from reading other's posts on their home gunsmithing projects and thought I'd share some of mine - thus this and previous "shop time" posts.

O.S.O.K.,

Since you started this thread something about that 94's stock did not look right. I figured it out.
I know why it was loose.
The top of the upper tang should be parallel to the top of the stocks wrist. The bottom tang should also be parallel to the bottom of the wrist.
However, if you look at your picture or the real thing you can see the tangs are sunk into the stock at the rear end. I'll bet a box of primers the tang screw has been over tightened to the point it's crushed the wood. Now the stock simply does not fit.

From looking at your pics, I would have built up the rear of the tang channels with say a popsicle stick and bedding epoxy to square things up and then bedded the front of the stock.
As it is with the lower tang not parallel to the stock you might have trouble with the trigger block safety. As the tang moves away from the lever it cannot push the trigger block's stud up as far.

I'd suggest reworking the tangs before anything else was done. Just to square things away.

Joe

[marlinman93]

You're right Joe! The old 1888 seems to have been the profile that Winchester used when they came out with the shape for the 1892 Winchester! They do have a lot in common at a glance.

You hit the nail on the head with the 1894's tang too! It does seem to need a bit more support under the upper tang to keep the tang from being pulled down into the stock when the screw is tightened.

[O.S.O.K.]

Thanks marlinman - what a great lookin rifle!

Joe - that pic makes it look that way, but its not really. It's the way that I worked the stock trying to fit it in the first place - the tang top and bottom are parallel and the screw is just right. And you can't squeeze the tangs together and not negatively affect the function of the hammer and sear.