Have two hicups with my pre-64 94. First, the trigger is a bit heavy (IIRC, pull is over 6 lbs), and when I open the action, things get stiff/heavy when the bolt hits the hammer to cock it. Is a lighter hammer spring the solution to both issues, or just the latter?
Thanks,
~Michael
Model 94 Trigger
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- J Miller
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Re: Model 94 Trigger
Pre 64s use a big honkin flat hammer spring. Some of them have a tension screw you can play with, although I'm not really sure that's what it is there for.
I don't remember what the vintage yours is, but on my 1950 it started out heavy like you described, but as I've been using it it's lightened up. Mine was virtually brand new and unused when I got a couple years ago.
Have you taken it completely apart and cleaned and lubed it? Mine needed that, it still had the factory goop in it. Once done it did make a difference.
Joe
I don't remember what the vintage yours is, but on my 1950 it started out heavy like you described, but as I've been using it it's lightened up. Mine was virtually brand new and unused when I got a couple years ago.
Have you taken it completely apart and cleaned and lubed it? Mine needed that, it still had the factory goop in it. Once done it did make a difference.
Joe
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts
.***
Re: Model 94 Trigger
Mine's a 1957. I've never had the stock off (bought it last year, I've probably put a couple hundred round through it), but after getting the rear sight off and finding factory grease where the leaf had been, sounds like I better take it apart and clean. I spoke with a local gunsmith/triggerman (Neal Jones, known among the benchrest crowd) that I plan on taking it to this afternoon.
~Michael
~Michael
Re: Model 94 Trigger
Took the stock off and the lower tang while home for lunch, and cleaned the gun. Not all that dirty. Looking at how things work, it looks like there's a paper clip shaped spring under the flat spring that applies pressure to the sear and that's what creates the weight for the trigger pull. Don't know what can be done to lighten that.
~Michael
~Michael
- J Miller
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Re: Model 94 Trigger
Michael,
That paper clip shaped spring is for the trigger block safety as well as the sear. One side holds the trigger block down, the other side keeps tension on the sear. The spring can be tweeked just a bit to lighten it's tension, but I've never done that. I don't know how much it would help.
I have found those springs twisted to one side and binding on the side of the tang in a couple of my 94s. When I straightened them out and got them out of the bind that did make a big difference.
Joe
That paper clip shaped spring is for the trigger block safety as well as the sear. One side holds the trigger block down, the other side keeps tension on the sear. The spring can be tweeked just a bit to lighten it's tension, but I've never done that. I don't know how much it would help.
I have found those springs twisted to one side and binding on the side of the tang in a couple of my 94s. When I straightened them out and got them out of the bind that did make a big difference.
Joe
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts
.***
- Griff
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Re: Model 94 Trigger
Joe is correct in that spring tension screw. It should be tight. It's not really for adjusting the tension on the spring, for anything less than tight it will continue to loosen, and shortly you'll have light primer strikes. As Joe said, check that your "paperclip" isn't dragging on the side of the lower tang. With the mainspring removed, you should only have this wire spring (paperclip) in the lower tang.

The hole, farthest left is the stock screw, the second hole is for the mainspring screw, the 3rd hole is for the tension screw. That's it. If you have a flat spring, other than the mainspring, it's got one too many.
The only correct way to improve the trigger pull on the Winchester 94 is to polish the sear/hammer alignment and engagement. It's a job best left to a professional as the angle is critical, mess that up and you'll have to replace the parts. A heavy trigger pull isn't a real disadvantage, but one that crisp, clean with no creep is priceless.
A Winchester 94, especially those with a flat mainspring are, IMO, slightly heavier in their lever throw, due to spring wrap up of that flat spring; whereas I feel the coil mainspring provides a smoother action. Which is really relative due to the nature of the action; you've got parts moving in three different directions all on the operation of the lever. (Hammer moves rearward, bolt straight down, link slightly down and lever forward; all that metal moving makes for the "clunky" feel of the action... once you're accustomed to it, all others feel un-natural!

The hole, farthest left is the stock screw, the second hole is for the mainspring screw, the 3rd hole is for the tension screw. That's it. If you have a flat spring, other than the mainspring, it's got one too many.
The only correct way to improve the trigger pull on the Winchester 94 is to polish the sear/hammer alignment and engagement. It's a job best left to a professional as the angle is critical, mess that up and you'll have to replace the parts. A heavy trigger pull isn't a real disadvantage, but one that crisp, clean with no creep is priceless.
A Winchester 94, especially those with a flat mainspring are, IMO, slightly heavier in their lever throw, due to spring wrap up of that flat spring; whereas I feel the coil mainspring provides a smoother action. Which is really relative due to the nature of the action; you've got parts moving in three different directions all on the operation of the lever. (Hammer moves rearward, bolt straight down, link slightly down and lever forward; all that metal moving makes for the "clunky" feel of the action... once you're accustomed to it, all others feel un-natural!
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
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SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
Re: Model 94 Trigger
I found I was able to reduce the hammer drag on cycling by polishing the mill marks off the underside of the bolt.
This made a tremdous difference in the force required and smoothness.
This made a tremdous difference in the force required and smoothness.
Re: Model 94 Trigger
Thanks for the replies. Dropped the gun off with the trigger man (he probably thought I was crazy bringing in a levegun, he's used to working on benchrest rifles), and he'll work his "magic" on it (as a friend of mine who has taken a lot of guns to him says). I'm excited to see how it turns out. The gun can really shoot, but usually the trigger and I get in the way. While at the trigger man's shop we tested the trigger pull again, first try was over 4 lbs, next was over 6lbs, and last was over 5lbs. Goal is a consistent 3lbs.
~Michael
~Michael
- J Miller
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- Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2007 7:46 pm
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Re: Model 94 Trigger
That's were I like mine set too. I just need to find a gunsmith close enough I can take the gun too. There is NONE is this area I know of that speak and comprehend the English language.Goal is a consistent 3lbs.
Joe
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts
.***