OT - Modified Wood Burning Stove Spark Arrestor

[don Tomás]

Thought I would pass along this idea. Once the cold wx sets in here in the Sierra, my Lopi wood burning stove will be lit and will have a fire going until May, only allowed to go out for emptying ashes or if we're going to be gone for a while. I bank an oak fire at night which smolders pretty dirty and tends to quickly clog up the little spark arrestor screens that normally come in the stove pipe caps. (The screens are required by California Division of Forestry.)

About 12 years ago, I started discarding the little screens and building a big external spark arrestor which covers the whole cap. The advantage is there is all kinds of screen surface to pass the smoke. As the smoke tends to keeps moving, creosote doesn't seem to build quickly as it did. Because the screen is exposed, rain/snow will wash the soot off and keep the screen from clogging. I've gone whole winter seasons without the need to sweep pipe or clean screen. All you need is galvanized 1/4" hardware cloth and 20 gauge galvanized wire to lace it all up. 1/4" bolts, washers, and wingnuts attaches the screen underneath to the bottom lip of the cap. I've made round/cylinder shaped external arrestors, but found that the box type design is the easiest for me to fabricate. Oh, that's a tomato paste can attached to the inside center top part of the screen. It adds support and helps the screen maintain its distance from the cap should an owl or other critter decide to have a sit on top of this thing. Here's a photo of my latest spark arrestor, The last one lasted 6-7 seasons. Anyway, just an FYI...
Tom

[gamekeeper]

Neat idea !

[Tycer]

Good post. Thanks!

[Ysabel Kid]

That's a cool idea!

[Modoc ED]

Very neat idea and execution.

CAL Fire (used to be CDF) would probably not object to your modification BUT should something happen, your insurance company will object strenuously. Your removal of the OEM built in small screen gives the insurance company the out they need not to pay any claim you might have.

I'd take that very picture you posted and give it to your insurance agent and get him/her to have the insurance company give you the ok on using it in place of the OEM built in small screen. If they give you the ok, keep all supporting documents/pictures in a secure (fire proof) space.

Frankly, I don't mind getting up on my roof a few times a year to check the condition of the spark arresting screen in my stack and the stack itself just to ensure that all is well. A good HOT fire will prevent much of the ash/creosote build up both in the stack and on the screen.

We don't have oak (of any quantity) available in this area so I'd say 99% of the folks burn juniper wood. You'd think that the pitch in the juniper would cause a quicker build up of creosote but it doesn't. I air-dry all my wood for at least a year before I use it. I've got some wood in my wood shed that has been cut/drying for six to eight years. Juniper burns hot and makes an excellent fuel source. Besides, I can get juniper cut and split for $110.00 a cord.

What does wood in your area cost.

[Nath]

Yes Modoc Ed has it, very neat job. Wet wood is what causes problems as what I mean green wood or wood that is not seasoned.
If I have any that I am not sure of I will stack it near the stove for a few nights to make sure.

Harvesting and burning wood is good for the spirit, good for the heart and good for the wallet!

Nath.

[don Tomás]

CAL Fire (used to be CDF) would probably not object to your modification...

CAL Fire inspects us every year (clearances, arrestors, etc, etc) and the arrestor gets the eyeball and passes every time. Some of the fire guys say that the arrestor actually would tend to make things safer as the stove can "breathe" easier (whatever that means). (One of the guys took pictures and said he was going to build one for himself.) They give us a little form saying we passed inspection and I make it a point to have them mention the arrestor on their form.

BUT should something happen, your insurance company will object strenuously. Your removal of the OEM built in small screen gives the insurance company the out they need not to pay any claim you might have.

We changed from Farmers to AAA homeowners about 8 years ago. AAA came out to inspect prior to covering us. They passed the arrestor and took copies of the CDF inspection slips that we had. So, I think we're ok.

What does wood in your area cost?

Oak seasoned, split, delivered about $240 and pine about $180. Very expensive but people are paying it. We're in the middle of BLM land and have all kinds of close by wood cutting places for my oak. My property provides all the pine/cedar I need. Been so dry the past years that we've been losing trees. We'll be OK as long and me and the Stihl hold together...
Tom

[don Tomás]

Harvesting and burning wood is good for the spirit, good for the heart and good for the wallet! Nath.

Amen, Nath. But I must admit that each year the chainsaw seems to get just a little bit heavier. Though, it is great to sit in warmth provided by the sweat of your brow when the snow flies...
Tom

[Modoc ED]

Good to hear -- errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr read that you seem to be ok. It's just that I know how insurance companies work sometimes. They'll use the least little thing to avoid paying out on a claim.

I gave up cutting/splitting wood years ago. Too much work for me and the price of wood is just plain cheap here. Five years ago we were paying $50.00 a cord cut and split and delivered.

[Nath]

Funny that, I too have noticed my saw getting heavy

Nath.

[iceman]

I know what you mean about heavy saws. I am in the process of cutting next years wood as we speak. I cut mostly maple and some white birch. About 5 or 6 cords per year. I'm using new saws this year, some skum bag broke into my shed and stole my 2 saws this summer. Cutting isn't so bad, it is the splitting I find harder as time goes by. I guess I'll have to break down and buy a hydrolic splitter. The six pound splitting maul seems heavier this year. Still love to spend an early morning out there cutting and splitting.

[Nath]

I don't mind the splitting iceman, it's the back ach when sawing. I now use ear plugs to stop the noise fatiguing me. I do mine in spring and it is stored on a south facing wall to get the sun, that is if we have any

Nath.

[iceman]

Cutting is not bad for me Nath if the chain is good and sharp, nothing to it. I don't know what you are cutting, but maple blocks of 16" to 18" sometimes have to be hit fairly hard to split. You then have to stand them back up to split again, pick them up again pile or load in trailor to get out of the bush pick them up again pile them and so on. Still good work and as my Dad used to say "Hard work never killed anyone".

[don Tomás]

...and as my Dad used to say "Hard work never killed anyone".

I have a neighbor down the mountain who I share a hydraulic wood splitter with. Boy, splitting with a maul. IceMan, your dad may have been right, but I'm not taking any chances!
Tom

[mescalero1]

Juniper, pinon, & pine; good to mix them up.
I'm still ok with cutting & splitting.
Hope the bod holds up, actually good for me, keeps me from getting fat!

[lever-4-life]

Id better be OK with cutting, I do it for a living

[stretch]

That's a dandy squirrel cage!

I heat the house with wood pellets, and the garage with wood.

I need just a coupla cords, and I mostly scrounge whatever's going.
I was once told to burn the first fire of the day hot, and also the last.
Mostly that's what I do. I also have a smallish stove, so it doesn't
smolder like a larger one. Wood is air dried on a south-facing wall
for at least 6 months - I've never had a problem.

Cordwood is $250 or s cut, split, and delivered; although I've
seen it as high as $300 this year.

[Nath]

yes, I sure keep my saw sharp and the rakers down. I tend to cut my logs no more than 6" letting the saw do the work and any splitting is pretty easy then. Most my timber this year is english oak.
Most my harvesting is fallen/windblown limbs scavanged of the places I shoot.
Helps pay for the gas n' stuff shooting them varmints.