Winchester 94 parts?

[Slick13]

Last night I was shooting my Model 94AE .25-35 for the first time in a couple months. What would have been a nice group was ruined by the trigger. So, I've made up my mind something needs to be done about it. First thing is getting rid of the rebounding hammer. Looking at the various articles it looks like I can alter the parts currently in the gun and either use the safety or carry the gun with the hammer down on an empty chamber, or I can put in post 64, pre rebounding hammer parts in and have a half cock notch. I'd prefer to put in a half cock. Looking around on the net, I'm not finding what I'll need. Can anyone point me in the right direction for the appropriate trigger, sear, hammer, spring and strut? Thanks.

~Michael

[deerwhacker444]

I swapped mine a few months ago, it made a HUGE difference in the gun. I got lucky and found most of the parts I needed for sale on Auctionarms and ebay. I just recently bought a replacement 15lb spring from Wolfe springs, you can buy off their website.

Parts Needed

[John in MS]

I also changed a rebounding hammer 94 to half-cock, using an original 1960's lower tang/hammer that I got off Ebay before they weaseled out and quit allowing sales of gun parts. As noted above, it makes a HUGE improvement. I have done the modification where a tang-safety Winchester could be carried on-safe (had my gunsmith do it, actually) and didn't like it at all. It was a bit tricky to operate and still left me with a bad trigger.

You might try parts sales on Gunbroker, etc. or if worst comes to worst, pick up a low-cost half-cock 94, swap tangs and sell it off with the rebounding hammer installed...

Of course, (lawyer talk here:) this is no recommendation to circumvent any safety mechanism, and any decision to do so is entirely your responsibility...

What a sorry pass America has come to, that we have to add such disclaimers!!!

Hope this helps!
John

[Tycer]

http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem. ... %20ANTIQUE

All the parts are there except the guide rod. I have a guide rod. $10 I also have a hammer. $35 Use your spring, just shorten it.

Hammer
Hammer mainspring guide rod
trigger
sear

you're done.

[Slick13]

http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem. ... %20ANTIQUE

All the parts are there except the guide rod. I have a guide rod. $10 I also have a hammer. $35 Use your spring, just shorten it.

Hammer
Hammer mainspring guide rod
trigger
sear

you're done.

Thanks for the link. I was looking at Numrich, but wasn't finding what I needed.

If you're looking to sell the guide rod and hammer, please PM me. I'll get a check in the mail today.

So, looking at the schematic at Numrich, all I'll need to get will be parts 52 (trigger), 53 (sear), and 54 (Trigger & Sear pin)?

The spring that's currently in the gun is a 13 lb Wolff. That will still need shortened?

Thanks,

~Michael

[J Miller]

You might try parts sales on Gunbroker, etc. or if worst comes to worst, pick up a low-cost half-cock 94, swap tangs and sell it off with the rebounding hammer installed..

Won't work. Pre rebounding hammer receivers are different inside. The rebounding actions will not function in them. Go to the "ONE STICKY" at the top and find my article about doing the tang swaps. I've put a picture in there with a description of the differences between the receivers.

Besides it would be one hell of shame to RUIN a good pre-rebounder just to fix up another gun. What are you thinking ............

Joe

[Tycer]

The Wolff spring might be perfect.

You do not need the trigger/sear pin. Only the four items previously listed.

PM sent.

[Griff]

Joe, sometime in 1977 or thereabouts the receivers changed to require the flat topped lower tang (non-earred tang). These parts will swap out easily onto the most recent of lower tangs. I have a 2006 curved lower tang in the project gun I'm building for my son, with all pre-rebounding parts installed:

[J Miller]

Griff,

Yes the newer rebounding hammer lower tang is the same part and will interchange into the older receivers.

HOWEVER ~ there is a horizontal ledge just forward of the hammer that is wider on the pre rebounding hammer receivers than the later rebounding hammer receivers. When you put a rebounding hammer action in an earlier receiver it will fit there, but when the hammer falls the curved part just forward of the hammer will prevent the hammer from hitting the back of the locking bolt and there fore you gots no bang.

At least that's what I found when I did my swap back in the last century.

That 's why I mentioned going to my thread in the "ONE STICKY" and looking a the pic I have in there.
OK, I went to the "ONE STICKY" and the link to my thread is no longer there. So here it is:
http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tech_no ... tes.htm/42
Take a close look at the last picture where I have the paperclip indicating.

Joe

[Griff]

Nope, you definitely need the hammer pictured here:

[Birdman]

You guys got me thinking that a couple of cold winter days coming up I will be fooling around with my 94's.