We have been working on the Webelos "activity pins" and "belt loops" for the last year, and he has earned a bunch of them. They go something like these:
http://www.usscouts.org/advance/cubscou ... Naturalist
But, there was one that was missing that I decided to work up myself. Granted, this is not a sanctioned belt loop, but I made one up for my son anyway, and will present it to him shortly.
What is the belt loop? A "Reloading" loop!
Here's what I worked up. Granted, I could have just copied something out of one of the many reloading manuals I own, but decided to "free-hand" it. Have I missed anything obvious? Made any mistakes? Problem with reloading for the last 30 years is it becomes second nature and you don't think through the actual steps. Here's my stab at it:
Cub Scout Sports
Metallic Cartridge Reloading
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The requirements listed below are what I think is the basic knowledge needed to reload modern metallic pistol cartridges for shooting.
This is NOT an official belt loop for the Cub Scout program, and metallic cartridge reloading is not a sanctioned activity by the Boy Scouts of America!
Many books have been written on the topic of reloading; this is just a summary!!!
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Belt Loop
Complete these three requirements:
1. Explain the four basic components of a modern metallic cartridge.
2. Discuss the equipment used to reload modern metallic cartridges, why people reload, and what needs to be kept in mind for safety.
3. Demonstrate to steps in reloading a modern metallic cartridge. Reload 50 rounds.
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Basic Components
Modern metallic pistol cartridges are comprised of four (4) basic components. They are the primer, the case, the powder and the projectile or bullet.
The primer in a modern centerfire cartridge is small and cup-shaped, and fits into a hole at the bottom of the metallic case. The primer, when struck by the firing pin, detonates shooting a small stream of fire through a hole in the base of the case to ignite the main powder charge.
The case in a modern metallic cartridge is normally made of brass, though aluminum and steel are also used (for non-reloadable ammunition). The case has a base, where the primer pocket is located, a rim or rimless feature for the action of the weapon, can be straight, tapered or bottle-necked in shape, and a mouth to receive the powder and hold the seated bullet.
Smokeless powder (as opposed to “black powder”) is used in a modern metallic cartridge. There are many different types, varying by the size, shape and burn rate of the powder, as well as its chemical make-up. The ignition of the powder after the primer is struck, causing its combustion and the corresponding release of expanding gases, causes the projectile to travel down the barrel to exit the firearm.
The projectile is the part that actually leaves the barrel when the powder is ignited. Often it is a solid bullet, and can be cast lead, jacketed in various metals, or made up of other materials. Lead is the most common bullet material. Projectiles can also be other things such as “shot” (multiple small sub-caliber projectiles fired all at once), plastic target projectiles, “wax bullets”, etc.
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Reloading Equipment
The basic equipment needed to reload a modern metallic cartridge consists of a press and a set of dies. In a set of dies there will usually be one die that decaps (deprimes) the case, and resizes it. The second die will expand the case mouth to accept a new bullet and permit charging of the case with powder. The last die will seat the new bullet and apply some form of a crimp, which will hold the bullet in the case until it is fired. Re-priming the case can be accomplished by a separate operation, either a die fitting into the press, or by a hand-priming tool. If the dies are made of steel then the case will need to be lubricated prior to resizing it. If the dies are made of carbide steel and the case has a straight wall (not bottle-necked), then lubricating the cases is not required.
Other common equipment in reloading include a tumbler to clean used cases, a scale of some kind to weigh charges, specialty crimping dies to apply specific types of crimps, calipers to measure the length of the empty cases and completely-loaded cartridges. A reloading manual is a must. Some reloaders also cast their own bullets, and a bunch of equipment is needed for that pursuit.
Reloading presses can be single-stage, holding a single die, all the way up to “progressive” machines that complete a cartridge with each pull of the lever.
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Why Reload?
People reload for a variety of reasons. Most people begin reloading to save money, as the brass case is often the most expensive component of a fully-loaded cartridge. Reusing it saves money, and often reloading can be ¼ to 1/10 the cost of a factory-loaded round!
Others reload to develop cartridges not available to them from factory manufacturers. These may include specific hunting rounds or ultra-accurate target rounds.
People who shoot obsolete rounds will reload because often they have no choice – no manufacturer currently produces cartridges for their firearm, and antique cartridges are too expensive (or hazardous) to shoot.
Finally, many people reload not only for all of the above, but simply for the enjoyment of a quiet, fulfilling past time.
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Safety
Reloading involves handling flammable and/or explosive items, and must be done cautiously! No flames or any ignition source should be permitted near the reloading work surface or where powder and/or primers are stored. Reloading requires 100% of the attention of the person doing it; distractions should not be permitted.
The biggest danger in reloading comes from over-charging a cartridge. Special attention must be paid to load development; this is why a quality reloading manual is a must. Do not trust load recipes from unknown sources. Do not ever start with the maximum recommended loading. Start at least 10% below and slowly work up, testing cartridges to see how they perform and if the spent brass or gun shows any signs of overpressure.
Using a recipe with the wrong powder, or over-charging a case can result in a blown up firearm, severe injury or death. Reloading is a very safe past time, but only if a heavy dose of common sense and caution is working into one’s reloading routine!
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Reloading Steps
The primary steps in reloading (a modern metallic pistol-caliber cartridge) are:
(a) Inspect the spent case for cracks or other defects. Toss any that are suspect for any reason.
(b) De-prime the spent case. This is the removal of the used primer, which also resizes the used case.
(c) Re-prime the empty case with a fresh primer of the appropriate size and type.
(d) Determine the charge desired based off accepted reloading information (recipes), powder type and bullet type and weight. Weigh the charge, and pour the powder into the case.
(e) Flare the case mouth to accept the new bullet (this is often accomplished with the case charging when using a charging die).
(f) Visually inspect the charged case to ensure it is not overcharged.
(g) Place a new bullet in the case mouth and seat it to the desired depth (do not over-seat it as higher pressures result). Seating depth is critical for proper gun functioning.
(h) Measure the completed cartridge to ensure it falls within the norms for the caliber.
(i) Keep a log of your reloading activities so you can adjust recipes for performance, or duplicate them. This will also enable you to tell what you have loaded and when.
