Oh fudge...

[Ysabel Kid]

[KWK]

Ouch.

[gamekeeper]

Jay, I see no slippers so I guess (and hope) it's not yours... condolences to whoever..

[GunnyMack]

THat looks like a crack that was there and possibly repaired many years ago.
Still hurts to look at though.

[Ysabel Kid]

Jay, I see no slippers so I guess (and hope) it's not yours... condolences to whoever..

John, to get the close-up view, the slippers are not in the frame. It is mine.

[Ysabel Kid]

THat looks like a crack that was there and possibly repaired many years ago.
Still hurts to look at though.

Bingo!

I bought it last year (or the year before) at a gun show. Was looking for a functional hammered antique double barrel. Something to hang in my office, not get used, but capable of being used. This one fit the bill perfectly, but did have the wrist repair.

So last month I was playing with some hot glue rounds in my basement. I loaded up a few in 12 gauge - just a round ball in a shortened shell, with only the primer to power it. Those didn't really do anything, so I put a few grains of Red Dot into the shells and got the effect I wanted. I was using them in a "modern" (well, ~50 year old) double I have, and decided to pull this one off the wall to try it. Not thinking, I went to open it and it was a little stiff, so I applied more pressure and "crack!" - the dang thing broke in my hands!

So, I'm thinking I'll need to glue up the pieces and add a steel rod, or perhaps two, to strengthen the wrist. I'll admit, part of me is tempted to add a brass wire wrap to the wrist - just because I like the look and it screams "old repair" to me.

I have never repaired a wrist like this. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated!

[wvfarrier]

Oof. Thats painful

[junkbug]

Selous plates.

https://hallowellco.com/selous_plates.htm

[samsi]

A friend had a Hollis 10 gauge coach gun with a bolted wrist repair. It was also covered with a hammered brass sheet formed around the grip and tacked in place. It looked good, and period correct. I'm sure there was epoxy in the mix as well, as it was solid enough for shooting real buckshot loads. (brass case with a dozen 00 buck IIRC)

[GunnyMack]

I'd take it apart, metal from wood, see how well the break goes back together, get a feel for how well it will actually go back together then decide on how to get it to stay together, wood glue , epoxy, acraglas. Might even inlet a piece of threaded rod or two.
To get it looking period correct either sheet or wire would do the trick.

[AmBraCol]

Jay, what you need is a bit of Cape Buffalo raw hide. Wrap it up wet and let it dry. Nice period correct repair.

[Bill in Oregon]

I can just hear that sickening crunch ...

[piller]

Zofran works well for the nausea you get when that happens.

[jnyork]

I'd take it apart, metal from wood, see how well the break goes back together, get a feel for how well it will actually go back together then decide on how to get it to stay together, wood glue , epoxy, acraglas. Might even inlet a piece of threaded rod or two.
To get it looking period correct either sheet or wire would do the trick.

This. Acraglass will ensure it never comes apart. I like the sheet idea.

[Old No7]

Ouch...

Gee Jay -- crack a smile, crack a joke, crack a beer even -- but cracking a stock?! Not good!

That happened to my brother's old wall-hanger, and what he did was force the wood together tightly on the side that faced the room, which left a slight gap on the other side (there was no way he could get rid of the gap on either side, due to the way the old wood broke); so he hid the break on the room-side as well as he could and added a brass plate & screws on the wall-side to reinforce the break; plus he used super glue inside the break. It's noticeable for sure when you take it down to look it over -- which seldom happens now (as he tells folks "not to handle it") -- but it looks fine from the room side.

Good luck with the repair.

Old No7

[Griff]

I can't tell from that photo, but is the stock held on by a thru bolt from the butt end? I'll assume it's not, so you can drill a hole into both ends of the break, at least half the width of the stock and glue in a hardwood dowel. Then drill thru that for the tang screw. The tricky part is getting the two holes to align properly for good alignment of the completed stock. Save the shavings from drilled the hole so you can color the glue you use for the joining of the two halves of the break. You'll need to break down the shavings into a dust to color the glue. That should make for a sturdy enough repair for wall hanging and occasional handling, you decide if it's strong enough to shoot again.

Edited to add: I have a Winchester 94 that has such a repair. It's near invisible from anything over an arm's length, and is sturdy enough to shoot.

[AJMD429]

I can't tell from that photo, but is the stock held on by a thru bolt from the butt end? I'll assume it's not, so you can drill a hole into both ends of the break, at least half the width of the stock and glue in a hardwood dowel. Then drill thru that for the tang screw. The tricky part is getting the two holes to align properly for good alignment of the completed stock. Save the shavings from drilled the hole so you can color the glue you use for the joining of the two halves of the break. You'll need to break down the shavings into a dust to color the glue. That should make for a sturdy enough repair for wall hanging and occasional handling, you decide if it's strong enough to shoot again.

Edited to add: I have a Winchester 94 that has such a repair. It's near invisible from anything over an arm's length, and is sturdy enough to shoot.

Yeah, and make the dowel as large as you can safely drill, so the subsequent hole through it leaves some 'meat' in the repair. The other option MIGHT be a threaded rod to replace the buttstock screw (if there is one), with it set up to compress the repair from both ends. That would require a nut epoxied or welded on the 'front' end though, so you could still remove the stock if needed (....if it cracks again.... ).

[Ysabel Kid]

Thanks fellas!