Savage 99 scope mount location

[FLINT]

Hey guys,

I've got a Savage 99EG in 300 savage that I like so much that I just bought another one but in 250-3000 savage. Same year (1952) as my 300 and came with a weaver K3 , whereas my 300 has a weaver K2.5

I bought the 250 on Gun broker and there weren't a ton of pictures but tried to do my due diligence and called the shop and asked some questions about condition,etc. Well, after some delivery delays (of course), I picked up the rifle tonight and was pretty dissapointed. The condition wasn't quite as advertised, which doesn't bother me so much, but the lever is pretty stiff, which hopefully would losen up with some ballistol.

My biggest concern though is the location of the rear scope mount. I knew going in that it wasn't drilled and tapped from the factory and must have been done at some point by someone, but that didn't really concern me - until I got the rifle in my hands. I didn't even think to think about the scope mounts or ask about them. The problem is that the rear scope mount is located directly over top of the closed bolt indicator. If you've had a 99 you know what I mean. When you close the lever a pin pops up at the rear of the receiver. The rear scope mount straddles that pin and they drilled a little hole in the bottom of the scope mount to allow the pin to pop up - but it looks like maybe not perfectly as the pin looks a little beat up.

Has anyone ever seen this? has this ever been considered a legitimate placement for the rear scope mount. On my first 99 in 300 savage, the rear scope mount is mounted forward of that rear pin, so it's function is unimpeeded and visible.

The seller's return policy is listed as unspecified, so I guess I'll call them tomorrow and inquire.

What do you think?

[earlmck]

Yikes! that is back there where the mount is on the sloped part of the receiver. Seems like such a dumb location it definitely reduces the value of the rifle. I have several scoped 99's and whether factory or 'smith drilled, the rear mount is located in front of that indicator on the level part of the receiver.

[BenT]

I had a 99 savage in 300 where the back scope base was not tapped correctly and was a little crooked. The problem this caused was the scope would loosen up after about 30 rounds. I solved the problem with a Leupold one piece scope mount . It uses the front two base mount screws and only the front screw for the back mount. It lays flat and doesn't curve with the receiver. With the two piece Weaver bases, the rear base is curved to follow the rear of the receiver and sounds like what you have.

[Sixgun]

Why is the lever stiff? 99's do cock on closing and other than that it's one of the smoothest actions. Take a picture as that helps.---6

[FLINT]

Yikes! that is back there where the mount is on the sloped part of the receiver. Seems like such a dumb location it definitely reduces the value of the rifle. I have several scoped 99's and whether factory or 'smith drilled, the rear mount is located in front of that indicator on the level part of the receiver.

yes, its a super dumb location, and it has me bummed out. not sure what to do. is it worth having a smith try to fix it and put the mount in the right place? maybe replace that indicator pin if its buggered up? I guess its possible that he wouldn't be able to put the mount in the correct location depending on the location of the current holes.

I had a 99 savage in 300 where the back scope base was not tapped correctly and was a little crooked. The problem this caused was the scope would loosen up after about 30 rounds. I solved the problem with a Leupold one piece scope mount . It uses the front two base mount screws and only the front screw for the back mount. It lays flat and doesn't curve with the receiver. With the two piece Weaver bases, the rear base is curved to follow the rear of the receiver and sounds like what you have.

oh, I see what you are saying, maybe that could be a solution. I'll look into that as well. would require one new hole - and then the current stupid holes filled with filler screws.

Why is the lever stiff? 99's do cock on closing and other than that it's one of the smoothest actions. Take a picture as that helps.---6

Yes, my 99 in 300 sav is super smooth - but then gives a little resistance right before the bolt closes. On this 'new' 99, there is resistance right as you start to close the bolt and then again right before it closes. It seems like its picking up some resistance when it pushes against a piece on the inside left side of the receiver (not sure what its called). I'll take a picture tomorrow. Maybe it's just stiff and needs some oil.

[Sixgun]

Pop off the butt plate and there's a hole. Get a long screwdriver and take the screw out and the butt stock will come off exposing you to a better "look-see" as to what's going on. Yes, it will be a little hard on the closing stroke but that should be it. By looking inside with a light will show you what's rubbing. It's a simple action. Sometimes after removing the screw the buttstock might be "glued" in there by old oil. This will require you to hold the rifle with the barrel pointing up and then tap on the receiver with a rubber or hard plastic hammer.

---6

[fordwannabe]

If the Mount was installed on a less than professional manner, I am wondering if the screws used were of the correct length? Could those scope Mount screws be binding on the bolt? Please let us know what you find.

[GunnyMack]

if it were me, I'd remove the mounts THEN cycle the action. If it still is a stiff close I would then dive deeper as I suspect the mount screws are long. If the stiffness disappears then you'll know what the cause is. Then I would open the hole for the indicator( allows you to not spend anything to get it shooting) so it doesn't drag in the base when it tries to move up/down. ( could also be what you are feeling)
Or get the proper mounts, reposition the rear mount to utilize the forward screw hole.

Used guns I always scatter so I can see wear, gunk, weed seeds and who knows what else could be causing less than normal operation. Clean and degrease then proper lubrication. And for petes sake WD40 is Not a lubricant!

[FLINT]

ok, finally got 5 minutes to look at it today.

The stiffness was due to being BONE DRY. I lubed it up good with some ballistol and now it cycles like glass with resistance only at the very end of the cycle. So that's one thing.

The remaining issue is that of the darn rear scope mount. Here are some images.















in one of the last pictures you can see I moved the mount up and put the rear screw in the front hole - do you think it will work in this location if I get a smith to drill and tap a new front hole? or is that too far forward? What a pain.

and do you think the indicator pin will need to be replaced? it looks like they filed it down some as the top of it is all shiny and not exactly square.

in the last picture you can see the hole they drilled in the rear mount for the indicator pin to occupy

[Sixgun]

Leave it alone...it looks fine to me.....if you notice the rear mount in on an angle and is made that way to conform to the curve of the tang.....by moving it up it will change the angle and the scope ring will dig into the scope......

I really don't see a problem at all...your thinking too much....

Oh!, the most impotant picture is next to the last picture ......we have the same kind of heater...they work great don't they??!----6

[Sixgun]

I dug this out...a like new factory d & t in .358 with a one piece mount.---6

[JRD]

I’m with Six. Leave it alone. The holes are already there. You’ve solved the bolt bind simply enough. Put it back together and see how it shoots.
You won’t have the cocking indicator but it’s not worth messing with tapping new holes and getting a new rear mount. Note the bottom of the rear mount is contoured to match the curving slope of the receiver. If you move that mount anywhere else the elevation and slope of the base will be skewed.
The rifle looks pretty nice. Just enjoy it as is and use it a piece to demonstrate what happened back before factory scope mounting holes.

[BenT]

Those weaver bases looks correct. The one piece base like in Sixguns picture do not work with the new shorter tube scopes. You can't slide the scope far enough back to get good eye relief. Shoot it the way that it is.

[marlinman93]

If you can find one, they made rear scope bases that fit in those two tang sight holes further back. Then you can simply install a pair of plug screws in the forward holes. I see the mounts and even scope and mounts together on Fleabay once in awhile. So keep an eye out and buy one to locate the scope mount where it is supposed to be.

Here's one there now:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Savage-1-Stith ... SwYc5fxEDh

[KeithNyst]

Definitely not a standard D&T location for a Savage 99. There is also an option to put on what is called a Lightfoot mount that uses the rear sight dovetail and the rear tang screw holes. But if it works as is, I'd just leave it alone and not put more $ into it or put more holes in it.

The correct weaver 2-piece for factory D&T's 99s is the Weaver #14 with a #19.

[BenT]

I dug this out...a like new factory d & t in .358 with a one piece mount.---6

Since you went through all the hassle of digging that out you might as well box it up and send it to me and I will send you some dead presidents. This will free up more space for you.

[Sixgun]

Since you went through all the hassle of digging that out you might as well box it up and send it to me and I will send you some dead presidents. This will free up more space for you.

How many do you want to send me? I bought it new and shot 20 rounds out of it with cast bullets and gently put it away....

This ain't no museum here.....as Jamie Colby says, "you can't take it with you"----6

[FLINT]

Leave it alone...it looks fine to me.....if you notice the rear mount in on an angle and is made that way to conform to the curve of the tang.....by moving it up it will change the angle and the scope ring will dig into the scope......

I really don't see a problem at all...your thinking too much....

Oh!, the most impotant picture is next to the last picture ......we have the same kind of heater...they work great don't they??!----6

Hmmmm. yeah, maybe. I think I would feel better about it if I hadn't paid so much for it. I've had pretty good luck in the past, but this time I took a chance and it didn't work out so well for me. Maybe it will shoot good and I'll feel better about it.

yes, those heat dishes are pretty good. I think it came from Costco.

[Sixgun]

Hmmmm. yeah, maybe. I think I would feel better about it if I hadn't paid so much for it. I've had pretty good luck in the past, but this time I took a chance and it didn't work out so well for me. Maybe it will shoot good and I'll feel better about it.

yes, those heat dishes are pretty good. I think it came from Costco.

Hey Flint....yep....Costco...$59.95.....love em ....they don't really heat the room, just what you point it at.....I think they call that radiant heat.....

You paid extra because of the caliber......that's OK, a 99 in 250-3000 will sell the next day at your price. I've got one in 38-55 and the above in 358...better than money in the bank.

Unlike junk from foreign countries you have a great rifle in a great caliber that's an investment, not a cheap liability like a Rossi is. ---6

[BenT]

Since you went through all the hassle of digging that out you might as well box it up and send it to me and I will send you some dead presidents. This will free up more space for you.

How many do you want to send me? I bought it new and shot 20 rounds out of it with cast bullets and gently put it away....

This ain't no museum here.....as Jamie Colby says, "you can't take it with you"----6

A friend of mines Dad also bought one in 358 new, sighted it in and said it kicked too much and put it away, never hunted with it but won't part with it either. It must kick too hard because you didn't keep shooting yours either and your Italian, much tougher than those Norwegians.

Just put it back in your safe, I need to hang onto these dead presidents for little longer.

[FLINT]

Hey Flint....yep....Costco...$59.95.....love em ....they don't really heat the room, just what you point it at.....I think they call that radiant heat.....

You paid extra because of the caliber......that's OK, a 99 in 250-3000 will sell the next day at your price. I've got one in 38-55 and the above in 358...better than money in the bank.

Unlike junk from foreign countries you have a great rifle in a great caliber that's an investment, not a cheap liability like a Rossi is. ---6

Thanks man, that makes me feel a little better.

The good news is that the vintage weaver K3 is actually really clear, so I might put it back together, load up some rounds and see how she does.

[Sixgun]

Flint ....I've got ...thinking...6 or 8 of those 50's-60's Weavers.....and they ALL work.....some are mounted and one, a 2.5 x with a post is on an AR 15. That's more than I can say about near any scope made today that costs under 3 or 4 hundred. The old Weavers may fog up but for a range gun or general shooter they can't be beat...---6

[FLINT]

Yes, my other 99 in 300sav has a Weaver K2.5 with the post and crosshair reticle. Its not super clear but still works great. I really like that reticle type. I'm surprised it's not more common. I've considered having it rebuilt just to clear it up.

This 250-3000 has a Weaver K3 with fine crosshairs, and its perfectly clear.

[765x53]

Those weaver bases looks correct. The one piece base like in Sixguns picture do not work with the new shorter tube scopes. You can't slide the scope far enough back to get good eye relief. Shoot it the way that it is.

I solved that problem with offset rings.