anyone slugged bores on these 357 leverguns?

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mickbr
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anyone slugged bores on these 357 leverguns?

Post by mickbr »

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Malamute
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Re: anyone slugged bores on these 357 leverguns?

Post by Malamute »

Checking various guns may, or may not reveal some tendencies, but it wouldnt necessarily indicate what any other gun of the same make will actually measure. The differences in fresh or used and sharpened rifling and bore cutters can change things by several thousandths, hence why we are told to check each individual gun. Anyone elses results may have no useful bearing on anyone elses individual gun. The Winchester 38-55 barrels ive seen info on have measured from .3745" to .381" or .3815" groove diameter. I cant remember how many times Ive seen someone assert online "Winchester 44-40 bores were X measurement" as if they were all the same. Ive seen various measurements of actual guns run from .427-ish(I think I recall seeing one mentioned that was a couple thou smaller at least once) to .432".
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Re: anyone slugged bores on these 357 leverguns?

Post by piller »

Not being any sort of expert, it makes sense to me that there would be a maximum size for a new cutter and a minimum size for it as it wears out. As it wears out, the bore diameter would be smaller. Am I correct?
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mickbr
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Re: anyone slugged bores on these 357 leverguns?

Post by mickbr »

Malamute wrote:
Sat Sep 12, 2020 10:01 am
Checking various guns may, or may not reveal some tendencies, but it wouldnt necessarily indicate what any other gun of the same make will actually measure. The differences in fresh or used and sharpened rifling and bore cutters can change things by several thousandths, hence why we are told to check each individual gun. Anyone elses results may have no useful bearing on anyone elses individual gun. The Winchester 38-55 barrels ive seen info on have measured from .3745" to .381" or .3815" groove diameter. I cant remember how many times Ive seen someone assert online "Winchester 44-40 bores were X measurement" as if they were all the same. Ive seen various measurements of actual guns run from .427-ish(I think I recall seeing one mentioned that was a couple thou smaller at least once) to .432".
Its still worth hearing the measurements. The guns above are fairly modern, or with limited productiion runs. Less likely to be worn out or prone to different manufacturing specs than say something like the orginals or even Rossi which has changed hands a lot.
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Re: anyone slugged bores on these 357 leverguns?

Post by AJMD429 »

piller wrote:
Sat Sep 12, 2020 10:11 am
Not being any sort of expert, it makes sense to me that there would be a maximum size for a new cutter and a minimum size for it as it wears out. As it wears out, the bore diameter would be smaller. Am I correct?
Yep, and within a given manufacturer, IF they are adhering to protocol, the resultant bore dimensions would reflect that.

I think the general measurements will certainly reflect 'general' tendencies per manufacturer as a factor if choosing what to buy and 'all else is equal', but it makes sense to also measure an individual gun once one has acquired it.
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Re: anyone slugged bores on these 357 leverguns?

Post by CowboyTutt »

Have to say have found these kits very useful and while there are other ways to measure using fishing weights, these kits really do make it so easy to individually slug your bores and are well worth the money IMHO.

https://www.meisterbullets.com/slugyour ... etails.asp

With some careful measuring of COL, bullet spacing to the rifled bore depending on bullet material and shape, and customization of the load you can make most rifles into tack drivers. I would recommend McPherson's books on "Metallic Cartridge Handloading", "McPherson on Leverguns" and his original work "Accurizing the Factory Rifle" which is still available but very expensive. You won't need the internet at that point to make your rifle into a complete and total tack driver. I buy the best brass I can as it saves me having to uniform it, which is time consuming, and my time is money. I can still sort by weight but its not really necessary most of the time with high quality brass cases. Norma, Lapua, my consistent favorites. It takes time to develop a good load for a rifle, but its worth it, even with iron sights. Properly bedding or "stress relieving" a levergun or bolt gun also time and money well spent IMHO. I'm not wealthy at all, can't afford a fancy car or truck, or even a home, but I can afford some work on making my guns shoot and I do. I prefer to let a professional gunsmith work the gun, and I work the load, dependent on the gunsmith and what they may already may know. QuickLoad is your friend and still the best option out there. Its not that expensive. -Tutt
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Re: anyone slugged bores on these 357 leverguns?

Post by Nate Kiowa Jones »

First thing to consider, most dial calipers aren’t accurate enough. At best they will vary .001 to .002" + or - off. To measure I like to use a zero-ed Starret micrometer.

Here's how I like to slug a bore. I like to use a slug of soft lead that is at least 1 1/2 times long than the bore dia that's being slugged. This extra length assures that the slug doesn't wobble or try to turn in the bore as it's hammered through. This can be verified with short slugs. Measurements will vary depending on where you measure it. The longer slug yields more consistent results. Make sure the bore is clean lead free and lightly oiled, as in an oiled patch pushed through it.
You can drive the slug in from the muzzle if you use a leather or rubber mallet so as not to damage the crown. I like to drive it all the way through to feel any high spots or bulges. I like to use a brass or hardwood dowel that is close to bore size. A rod that is too small can deform the soft lead. Next if it's a levergun I use two wooden dowels just smaller than the bore and cut to the cartridge OAL. These are inserted into the chamber end and the action closed. Next the slug is re inserted in the muzzle end and driven to the wood dowel then bumped up so it's now tight. Now, open the action, remove the dowels and gently tap the slug on out. This will give you a really true picture of the bore just in front of the chamber or farther out depending on how many dowels are used.
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