.36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

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vancelw
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.36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by vancelw »

Alright, we have people with all sorts of experience here. I need some hints.

I recently acquired a couple of .36 caliber revolvers. An 1851 Navy and an 1861 Navy. Both are Uberti made.
I finally made time to load and shoot one (the 1861) yesterday. It's a hoot, except for the cleaning....
I figured out a few things I need to know.

What is a good capper to use? I have a straight capper for #11 caps. Haven't tried it with #10s yet to see how well it holds them, but obviously, I need something better than my fat thumbs.
I also noticed the #10 caps are loose and see that many recommend smashing them slightly out of round to make them stay on better. Is there a capper that will do that for you as you set them?
Nipple wrench recommendations?? The one I have for rifle is too big for the revolver cylinder. Are those Taylor's L-wrenches sturdy enough or do I need a T-handled one?
I'll probably just buy .375 round ball for now. If I get to shooting more I can always buy a mould.
On that note, do y'all use patches or wads? I used some .36 caliber pre-lubed patches, but they seem awfully large.
What's the best way to clean the frame and action? Seems like taking the stocks off would be a pain (and end up buggering screws) but don't want to get the wood wet. I used hot, soapy water, blew everything out with air and then oiled it back down. I need to readdress it once I get the proper nipple wrench.

When I shot it at bout 10 yards, the hits were 4 inches or so to the left. How do you correct point of impact on a BP revolver? You can't rotate the barrel.... Am I stuck with Kentucky windage?
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M. M. Wright
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by M. M. Wright »

yes you need a T handle nipple wrench and some new nipples. Slix Shot from Track of the Wolf. you can try filing your nipples shorter to get them to a larger part of the taper so your caps will fit. Chain fires can occur from loose caps. Watch Duelist 1954's videos on youtube. He's got a bunch but look for the ones about your revolvers. I don't pull the grips very often but you've got a leg up with compressed air. It's what I use. And Ballistol is your friend. Buy some Permatex anti-sieze for the nipple threads and don't use much. you can try opening up the hammer notch sight to one side with a tiny round pattern file to correct windage a little. Or you can install a dovetail front and I like to shorten the barrel to 5". Oxyoke wads are good but over ball wax from a toilet ring works even better and really works as a lube. The slot in the hammer face needs to be filled with JB Weld to keep it from pulling spent caps which jam the action. #10 caps work better or 9s if you can find them and you need a small piece of wood dowel to give the caps a push to seat them. One of the snail cappers is nice too. They come big enough to hold a hundred.
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by gamekeeper »

M. M. Wright wrote:
Wed Aug 12, 2020 3:45 pm
yes you need a T handle nipple wrench and some new nipples. Slix Shot from Track of the Wolf. you can try filing your nipples shorter to get them to a larger part of the taper so your caps will fit. Chain fires can occur from loose caps. Watch Duelist 1954's videos on youtube. He's got a bunch but look for the ones about your revolvers. I don't pull the grips very often but you've got a leg up with compressed air. It's what I use. And Ballistol is your friend. Buy some Permatex anti-sieze for the nipple threads and don't use much. you can try opening up the hammer notch sight to one side with a tiny round pattern file to correct windage a little. Or you can install a dovetail front and I like to shorten the barrel to 5". Oxyoke wads are good but over ball wax from a toilet ring works even better and really works as a lube. The slot in the hammer face needs to be filled with JB Weld to keep it from pulling spent caps which jam the action. #10 caps work better or 9s if you can find them and you need a small piece of wood dowel to give the caps a push to seat them. One of the snail cappers is nice too. They come big enough to hold a hundred.
EXCELLENT ADVICE....... 8)
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Ray
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by Ray »

I think the patches you refer to are for rifles and don't apply here.

If you find .375" too small for your chambers, give them a smack with a hammer to fatten them so you get a proper fit or buy . 380"

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/mobil ... nfo/SBK40/

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/202/1


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ty7Tc5ljSdU

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BfTGjm3IDYw

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ItpFBsrSfao

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fntF7qrE9GY

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WS3QRSXm3zs

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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by vancelw »

Thanks for those replies.
I've been looking and (like always) having a hard time finding all the things I want to buy in one location.

I've got some never seize around here somewhere...

The 1851 (the one I didn't shoot) has slix shot nipples on it. I will see how a cap fits on those. And that gives me 6 extra original nipples to file on as practice.

Good start on advice. I'll be back for more, I'm sure.

M.M. I was going to come see you at the Tulsa Wanenmacher show in April. Then they cancelled all common sense. :(
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by Old No7 »

It's not on this site, but here's an excellent posting about the Proper Use of a Cap and Ball Revolver(click for link) and I hope you're able to access it.

Good luck -- go make some smoke!

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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by hondo1892 »

All the Uberti's that I've owned needed .380" balls. You may have older ones from way back but all the ones I've seen in the past fifteen years or so have had the larger bore diameter.
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by Griff »

MM Wright is right. Get some SlixShot nipples, use Remington #10 caps. Find .380 balls, unless your .375 have a nice little ring of lead left after pressing them in the chambers. I use Ox-Yoke wads over the powder and "Bore Butter" on the arbor. I can usually shoot 6 stages before any cleaning is needed.
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by gamekeeper »

I have just started reading "Percussion Pistols and Revolvers" by Johnny Bates & Mike Cumpston. It looks an interesting and useful book, for newcomers to muzzleloaders and old hands alike... :D
From his weapons on the open road no man should step one pace away, you don't know for certain when you're out on the road when you might have need of your spear.
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by vancelw »

Great suggestions and links....just what I was looking for.
I had watched some few videos before, but was having to wade through too many weeds to get to the good stuff.

So...on break at work I ordered enough stuff from 3 different places to basically fund another gun :oops:

My .375 balls seated well with a patch, and the patch self trimmed enough for me to pull out the excess. Let me shoot my gun but don't want all that hassle.

I've got a .375 conical mould that came with my 1851, but I'm doubtful it will work worth a darn as the bullets just drop into the cylinder with no resistance. May search for a .380 conical.

The hardest part is getting caps without paying a haz-mat fee. No one local sells any.
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by Rusty »

You might try honing out that too small conical mold. If it doesn't work you haven't lost anything.
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by vancelw »

Ugh... now I can't find #10 caps in stock anywhere :cry:

I thought I had a tin, but they must be #11 as they are very loose.

Oh well, getting enough hurricane rain that I can start reading my new copy of Percussion Pistols and Revolvers by Johnny Bates & Mike Cumpston
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by Ysabel Kid »

gamekeeper wrote:
Wed Aug 12, 2020 4:19 pm
M. M. Wright wrote:
Wed Aug 12, 2020 3:45 pm
yes you need a T handle nipple wrench and some new nipples. Slix Shot from Track of the Wolf. you can try filing your nipples shorter to get them to a larger part of the taper so your caps will fit. Chain fires can occur from loose caps. Watch Duelist 1954's videos on youtube. He's got a bunch but look for the ones about your revolvers. I don't pull the grips very often but you've got a leg up with compressed air. It's what I use. And Ballistol is your friend. Buy some Permatex anti-sieze for the nipple threads and don't use much. you can try opening up the hammer notch sight to one side with a tiny round pattern file to correct windage a little. Or you can install a dovetail front and I like to shorten the barrel to 5". Oxyoke wads are good but over ball wax from a toilet ring works even better and really works as a lube. The slot in the hammer face needs to be filled with JB Weld to keep it from pulling spent caps which jam the action. #10 caps work better or 9s if you can find them and you need a small piece of wood dowel to give the caps a push to seat them. One of the snail cappers is nice too. They come big enough to hold a hundred.
EXCELLENT ADVICE....... 8)
Agreed on all counts. If you are interested in shooting period-correct conicals, go to the Eras Gone Bullet Molds website. These are great!
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by Bullard4075 »

In my keep file.
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by Ray »

B.T.W. there is no better a powder charger/measure for the navy colt than a spent .40 s & w case.....

and this.....

http://milesfortis.us/mcump/mc18.htm
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by vancelw »

Ray wrote:
Sun Sep 20, 2020 8:04 pm
B.T.W. there is no better a powder charger/measure for the navy colt than a spent .40 s & w case.....

and this.....

http://milesfortis.us/mcump/mc18.htm
Thanks for the link...and the reminder.

I actually have a set of volume measures from 10 to 80 grains. I soon figured out that a .458 Lott caseful of BP was what I needed for my Kodiak Kombo

So, my search says that a .40 S&W holds 19.3 gr of water and a 10mm holds 24.1 gr of water. I've found that the BP volume by weight seems to be the same.
If I ever get a day off work where I am not overcome by chores, I'm going to get that 1851 and 1861 back out to play with again. I finally found some #10 caps and got my SLixshot nipples and a decent wrench
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by gamekeeper »

I posted this photo a long time ago, it's a gravestone in the local church. Not often you see a Colt Navy on a headstone.
P2050025.jpg
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From his weapons on the open road no man should step one pace away, you don't know for certain when you're out on the road when you might have need of your spear.
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by gamekeeper »

A closer image. The Colt Navy was issued to British Officers at the time of the Crimea war.
P2050026.jpg
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From his weapons on the open road no man should step one pace away, you don't know for certain when you're out on the road when you might have need of your spear.
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Re: .36 Caliber Revolver - New shooter questions

Post by Ray »

Quite a few handgun cartridge cases are useful as muzzleloading chargers.

The .45 acp and .357 mag. both throw about 26 to 27 gr.

The .38 special is good for a heavy navy load if no wad is needed.

The .44 special and .41 mag. both throw about 34 to 35 gr. for the army and remington or for heavy conical in the horse pistols.

A .45 colt is good for the horse pistols with round ball.

Graduated in c.c.-s cylindrical plastic medical sample tubes with either pop-tops or screw tops abound on eBay with each c.c. mark approximately = 15 grains b.p.
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