Hoppes #9 ???h

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Rusty
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Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by Rusty »

Jr and I went to the range yesterday to shoot an old Remington 1903a3 Sporter I have. While we were there he wanted to shoot some old Danish tracer ammo we had from 1943. I'm almost certain the tracer ammo is corrosive so I've run multiple patches down the bore soak with Hoppes #9. Anyone know about the ability to clean corrosives with the Hoppes?
The color of the patches has gone from black to green for now. I guess I'm cleaning out 75 years worth of copper build up. I just want to make sure I get all the corrosive residue as well.
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rgates
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by rgates »

After shooting lots of corrosive ammo in many guns, nothing gets the salts out better than hot water. The solvent will get the fouling out. Use hot water, some say with a little dish detergent poured down the barrel using a small funnel followed by patches and then clean hot water. The hot water heats the barrel and aids in drying. Finish drying with patches and then put a light coat of whatever rust preventative you like. My 03A3 two-groove barrel took 14 hours on a 'Foul Out' electric hookup to get the copper out. Looks new now.
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J Miller
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by J Miller »

When I bought my Ishapor 2a #4 Mk1 Enfield some years ago the instructions said to clean the bore with window cleaner that contained ammonia. Supposedly the ammonia takes care of the corrosive properties of the priming. It's worked as the bore is still perfect.

I'd use hot water, the window cleaner with ammonia, or hot soap and water first, then use the Hoppe's #9 to clean the rest of the fouling and copper deposits out.

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pdentrem
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by pdentrem »

Ammonia will eat out the copper left in the barrel. Most copper removers have a higher amount of ammonia than plain cleaners.
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Malamute
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by Malamute »

Hoppes No 9 was designed when corrosive primers were in use. Ive used it for corrosive primed ammo, even black powder ammo and had no problems. Theres talk that it doesn't have as aggressive of chemicals in it today, I don't know. When I've used it, its been fine. Same for Shooters Choice, it has worked very well and got jacket fouling out even better.

Someone commented once that both Hoppes No 9 and Shooters Choice worked because they were water based. I also don't know about that part, just that they've both worked fine with corrosive ammo for me in the past.
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by jeepnik »

I clean my BP handguns in the dishwasher (don't tell the wife). Get's all the gunk, dries them rapidly. Just remove grips, pull cylinder and wash. The lube and reassemble. Long guns are a bit out of reach for this method.

For long guns I remove the wood, the pour boiling water down the bore. Small parts do get the dishwasher treatment. Never had to use soap on the bore.
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Rusty
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by Rusty »

Malamute wrote:Hoppes No 9 was designed when corrosive primers were in use. Ive used it for corrosive primed ammo, even black powder ammo and had no problems. Theres talk that it doesn't have as aggressive of chemicals in it today, I don't know. When I've used it, its been fine. Same for Shooters Choice, it has worked very well and got jacket fouling out even better.

Someone commented once that both Hoppes No 9 and Shooters Choice worked because they were water based. I also don't know about that part, just that they've both worked fine with corrosive ammo for me in the past.

I don't think it's water based any more. The label says it contains kerosene.
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Blaine
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by Blaine »

Kroil will not really dissolve copper fouling, but it will get under it, and loosen it up and make it easier to get out.
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JohndeFresno
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by JohndeFresno »

Like, TOTALLY sold on Wipe-Out, Dude! And no ammonia.
Here is an earlier experiment:
http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... =1&t=34951

From their website, toward the bottom of the Wipe-Out data:

"WIPE-OUT™ is practically odorless and non-flammable.

It contains a rust inhibitor, and will not stain hands of clothing.

It is safe for all modern paint, gunstock finishes and steels. It however is not safe for varnish , shellac or old oil type finishes. IT WILL REMOVE THEM.

It will dissolve brass, bronze, aluminum, and copper.

It will not dissolve lead but it will degrade lead so that it can be pushed out with a patch."
Last edited by JohndeFresno on Thu Feb 18, 2016 3:01 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Ben_Rumson
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by Ben_Rumson »

+1 Malamute
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Blaine
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by Blaine »

Since lead was mentioned, half white vinegar, and half hydrogen peroxide will dissolve lead. Prolly shouldn't get it on the wood. After done, run lots of patches to absorb the mixture.
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guido4198
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by guido4198 »

BlaineG wrote:Since lead was mentioned, half white vinegar, and half hydrogen peroxide will dissolve lead. Prolly shouldn't get it on the wood. After done, run lots of patches to absorb the mixture.
What % strength of Hydrogen Peroxide are you referring to in that 50/50 mix...????
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Re: Hoppes #9 ???h

Post by Blaine »

http://www.westernshooter.com/2011/12/f ... rrels.html
quote="guido4198"]
BlaineG wrote:Since lead was mentioned, half white vinegar, and half hydrogen peroxide will dissolve lead. Prolly shouldn't get it on the wood. After done, run lots of patches to absorb the mixture.
What % strength of Hydrogen Peroxide are you referring to in that 50/50 mix...????[/quote]
I just used the brown drug store stuff....
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