Anyone on here into photography?

[shooter]

I just bought a new Nikon DSLR camera after playing with a friend's Canon on a recent trip to Puerto Rico. I bought it to take better pics on vacations, and also for my fishing/hunting trips. I'm brand new to photography. I've always enjoyed taking pictures, but have always used "point and shoot" cameras. I'm looking for some tips, or to be pointed in the right direction to learn the basics of photography. My dad is an old photo buff, but hasn't moved into the digital age yet. He's still using his Nikon 35mm camera. He has taught me some, but he isn't totally sure how everything translates to the digital cameras.

I'm really enjoying my new camera, even though I have no idea what I'm doing yet!

[Hobie]

#1 tip, be fully clothed when you take photos of objects with reflective surfaces.

[shooter]

Ha! I will keep that in mind

[Blaine]

With all these new fangled sensors, and internal light meters, the camera takes better pictures than I could ever take using it on manual. You can play around with the flash settings so if you're in harsh light the shadows won't kill half your subjects face, or, wash out the sky. Put the little "square/circle" you see in the viewfinder on the subject at hand, and that should give you proper exposure (usually, you can save that by keeping the shutter button slightly depressed, then frame/compose the pic and take it)

[AmBraCol]

Auto mode is your friend.



+1 on Hobie's tip

[rbertalotto]

Auto mode is your friend.

NOOOOOOOO! Not with a DSLR. The fun is in learning how to use it and then taking spectacular pictures.

There are fantastic Nikon forums that like this forum can teach you more than you could ever learn on your own. http://www.nikonians.org/forums/

Look for Darrel Young books on "Mastering the Nikon XXXX Camera", Nikonians Press

Fantastic books and make it real easy to master your camera

Be careful of "Lensitis"...Similar to "Leveritis".........

I have a D90 with over a dozen lenses and really enjoy my photography.........Have fun with it!

[cshold]

Take plenty of pictures from different angles.
I've found on average, one out of every ten subject shots comes out half decent.

[pdentrem]

If you are taking pictures of your important people and other important stuff with the sun directly in front of you, to it being at 90 degrees on either side. Be sure to use the flash. It will fill in those dark shadows and make better pleasing pictures. The shadows caused by hats etc can ruin great shots.
Pierre

[Griff]

I've had 4 Nikon SLRs, still have a Nikkormat and finally pared myself down to 4 lenses. I've used 35mm, 2-¼", 4x5 & 8x10 formats. I rented the 8x10, but have owned at least one each of the others over the years. Studied photography for 3 years in college working to a photojournalism degree... Even won a contest or two, and worked for a pro for awhile, several good friends are doin' it full-time, attended classes by several well-known photogs, and workshops put on for industrial, nature, architectural & even nudes... Whole books have been written on the subject, and I've read a LOT of them.

To go all Terry on ya, I couldn't condense all I know down to a few words of advise that'll make you the equivalent of KirkD! But... here's a few LINES that help ya get started.

Since SD cards are even cheaper than film, and far more than one of mentors told me "...film is CHEAP, take LOTS of exposures." Even today, with the auto function, you might luck into an outstanding shot or two. But, there's a thing called "bracketing", where you use the meter to give you the suggested optimal setting... what you'd get on "auto", then, moving the shutter speed and/or aperture up/down take more shots. Closing the aperture increases depth-of-field, but requires (maybe), a longer shutter opening. For every "good" photo I've taken, I'll bet there are 5 or six under/over exposures of the same shot. For exposures of greater than 1/250th of a second, buy a tripod an a cable release.

Basically, for outdoor shots you want the sun behind you. And don't be afraid to use the flash to bring out the definition of dark subjects or faces of folks wearing a hat.

Good photos show mastery of the technical aspect, or LUCK! Great photos are made in the composition and the control of the "environment". Don't be afraid to experiment.

If you want to really be creative, buy a good photo software package... like Adobe Photoshop, but there are others... see: http://www.consumersearch.com/photo-editing-software. The program that came with your Nikon is pretty good. And will serve well, if somewhat limited in its range of features.

I tend to take "snapshots" and use an editor to compose in, as it can give me "different" shots of the same subject for different purposes.

Photography is an ART... and like being a good at anything, requires attention to the details.

[shooter]

To go all Terry on ya, I couldn't condense all I know down to a few words of advise that'll make you the equivalent of KirkD! But... here's a few LINES that help ya get started.

Please don't go Terry on me!! I'm not looking to get full instruction here on the forum. I'm mainly looking to get pointed in the right direction to books, forums, etc. where I can learn on my own. Now that I've got most of the functions down on my camera, I'm just going to start playing with it for a while to learn a little about how the ISO, shutter speed, and f stop affect the outcome of the pictures.

I'm getting into too many expensive hobbies. First guns, then the fly fishing bug hit me, now cameras.

[AJMD429]

#1 tip, be fully clothed when you take photos of objects with reflective surfaces.

A local restaurant owner Facebook-posted pics of her new fancy bookshelf and mirror wall she'd just built, and until she got an avalanche of feedback like "You really looked 'PERKY' today..." she didn't realize she had been standing there topless when she took pictures of the bookcase, and mirror. . .

[Rusty]

You might go to www.komando.com

Kim Komando has a book on digital photography.

[Neumann]

For travel pictures, think about what you are seeing, and what makes it interesting. Shoot those things which make it interesting. Keep it simple, don't try to get everything in one shot. On a trip to Prague, I think I took a picture of every medieval door and latch in the city (among other things).

Photography is a broad subject. For the techy sorts (like me), gear and technique are interesting, but not all that hard to master. Nobody can tell you where to point the camera, and when. For that, you have to see what you are looking at.

[jeepnik]

Tip #1,Shoot everything in RAW. It is the largest file size, and can be easily resized or converted to another file type such as jpeg. RAW contains all the pixels, where as when you shoot is jpeg or any other type you have compression.

Tip #2, don't go cheap on you photo editing software. Cheap software will drive you bonkers. It's usually difficult to get the results you want. I'd recommend Photoshop, but there are a couple of other good ones out there. The software that comes with the camera is ok for uploading to your hard drive, but that's about it.

Tip #3, don't go cheap on lenses. Cheap lenses don't have the lower F-stops and aren't as good at light transmission as a good lens.

Tip #4, get a good flash. The ones on the camera are okay for times you don't have your external flash with you (shame on you for forgetting it). Again, that's about all they are good for. A good quality flash allows several syncing options, and they can also be used "off" camera which once you learn to use it, you'll want to use it that way all the time.

Tip#5, get a good book on digital photography. And, get another that is camera specific. The user manual that comes with it is okay for understanding where the controls are, but that's about it. The good book on digital photography will open an entirely new world to you.

Tip #6, Buy a good tripod and learn to use it. They can be used for much more than just setting them on all three legs, and you'll pretty much always get a better result when using one. Oh, and they make an excellent tool for discouraging some punk from stealing your expensive camera gear, and you don't have all the issues you'd have if you just shot the rectum.

I've got more, but I'll let others chime in so we can give you so much information you'll sorry you ask.

[Griff]

To go all Terry on ya, I couldn't condense all I know down to a few words of advise that'll make you the equivalent of KirkD! But... here's a few LINES that help ya get started.

Please don't go Terry on me!! I'm not looking to get full instruction here on the forum. I'm mainly looking to get pointed in the right direction to books, forums, etc. where I can learn on my own. Now that I've got most of the functions down on my camera, I'm just going to start playing with it for a while to learn a little about how the ISO, shutter speed, and f stop affect the outcome of the pictures.
I'm getting into too many expensive hobbies. First guns, then the fly fishing bug hit me, now cameras.

No, I'm not likely to. Remember, in this digital world, is your friend. Depending on the exact camera you have, many of the features will be similar to film photography. I haven't played around with either of my digital cameras very much... But, I love the immediacy of the outcome... no waiting for darkroom time and many hours developing negatives or slides and then prints...

[rbertalotto]

A few more hints.....

#1 I'm not a computer geek, but I can easily handle Nikons Capture NX2 photo software. Post Production is what it is all about in digital photography. You can really "fix" some otherwise wasted shots

#2 Shoot early morning or late afternoon when the sun is very low. Great shadows are created and the light is muted. Cloudy days are another great time to shoot.

#3 TRIPOD or MONO-POD..........Nothing beats a nice sharp focus and the camera rock solid really helps in this department. It also allows you to use higher F stops where most lenses are at their best. Spend real money on a tripod. A cheap, flimsy tripod is no fun. I use a Monopod when just taking snap shots. It keeps the camera steady and takes the weight off for holding it all day.

#4 Use a prime lens rather than a zoom lens. It forces you to move around for the best shot rather than rely on the zoom feature. And prime lenses are much sharper at the lower price ranges.

#5 You need a real good monitor and printer if you plan on printing your photos. You can't do post production on a monitor that isn't accurate with regard to colors and other aspects. Ditto for the printer.

Yup....Guns, Flyfishing and Photography......... Amazing how many folks I know on this exact same path....

[bdhold]

this was shot with the monopod that is also my wading staff in early morning light



you can't take too many exposures, electrons are cheap - back in the film days we printed contact sheets for this reason
I can't tell you how many bad shots I have taken into the sun, but every now and then


here's a place you might want to visit
http://classicflyrodforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=25

[alnitak]

I shoot Nikon as well, so don't hesitate to ask if you have questions about the camera.

Some other tips:

Generally, use the "A" mode (aperture) for best control of your shot (not program mode); it will automatically adjust the shutter speed for the aperture you select. This is best for most shooting circumstances...for now.

Learn the "rule of thirds" for composition; it will make your pictures more interesting and eye catching.

When you frame the shot, eliminate everything that is unnecessary to the "story" you want to tell with the picture. You may read/hear about "filling the frame" as well; these two go hand in hand.

Use the vertical alignment for many shots. How many times have you seen a horizontal shot of someone (say from the shoulders up) where there is a bunch of empty space right and left. Turn the camera on end for better composition (and see the tip above).

Flash outdoors is useful, as said above. Even if you don't need it, it will put a "twinkle" in the subject's eye. Watch out for shots of people with the sun behind you...it will force the subject to "hood" their eyes and/or squint. Conversely, from the side will create shadows (though a flash will help there).

When shooting animals, kids, etc., get down on their level, and make sure the eyes are in focus.

Learn the dynamic shooting modes and what works best to follow action subjects. I shoot a lot of sports, especially indoors, and the dynamic focusing modes come in handy, but sometimes need to be adjusted depending upon the sport.

There are some good, inexpensive lenses for Nikon, including some by Sigma and Tamron that are less expensive and better than their Nikon equivalents. If you really want to learn how to shoot, get a 35mm or 50mm prime and learn how to "foot zoom."

To eliminate camera shake and make your shots crisper, use the 1/focal length rule for shutter speed. E.g., if you have a 200mm zoom, extended out fully, then make sure your shutter speed is at least 1/200. If you have a DX format camera with a 1.5 crop factor, make the shutter speed 1/300 or higher. Adjust to a higher ISO if the conditions require more speed.

Understand the relationship between f/stop, ISO and shutter speed. One stop of aperture (e.g., moving from 2.8 to 4.0) will cut the shutter speed in half. Likewise, one step of ISO (say going from 200 to 400) will double the shutter speed. For most sports, you will need to be a 1/400 or faster to stop the ball (i.e., prevent it from blurring in the picture).

For sports, remember the simple rule of "two people and a ball" to create more interesting shots with dynamic tension. (Obviously, this rule does not apply to all sports, nor all shots.)

As said before, when you can, buy "pro" glass (i.e., generally those lenses with a "fixed" f/ stop of 1.4, 2.0. 2.8 or even 4.0).

Read the manual fully!! Best way to learn about your camera and its capabilities.

Another good site is dpreview.com.

Have fun!!

[Griff]

Readin' other's responses, reminded me of a coupla points I meant to make. Zooms are nice and convenient, but... in the main they mean less quality in the final image over the equivalent fixed lens. I carry two lenses. A 55mm macro and a 105mm.

The macro because of how close it can focus, and at 55mm it still gives a very natural perspective to subjects. The 105mm because for portraits it gives an good depth of field, doesn't foreclose (make things appear flat) faces, yet allows me to be far enough away to utilize what there is of natural light and softens the flash when it's needed.

[jeepnik]

Okay, now I'll make a basic lens recommendation. Get one (a good one) that's around 25mm to 300mm zoom. It's seems to have enough wide angle and telephoto for most shots. In addition to exposure bracketing (your camera will likely have a feature that will do this automatically) learn to zoom bracket. Sometimes what you see the eyepiece or display (I hate the LCD displays, they just never do as good a job as looking thru the eyepiece and seeing what the lens is seeing) just isn't what you really want. Bracketing exposures and zoom can give you a number of images to begin any editing you intend to do. And, every now and then you'll get one that's just perfect in the bunch.

Once you get into it, you'll need other zoom combinations, and most importantly, as mentioned, fixed lenses. You generally get a lower F-stop, and a sharper focus with a good fixed than even a good zoom.

[alnitak]

Zooms are nice and convenient, but... in the main they mean less quality in the final image over the equivalent fixed lens.

For consumer lenses, yes. But pro-quality zooms can deliver equivalent (or even better) IQ, especially when you consider that many primes are not their sharpest wide open. The Nikon 85mm f/1.4 is sharpest from 1.4 to 4.0, then starts to falls off, whereas the 85mm f/1.8 is sharpest from 4.0 to 8.0, while the 50mm f1.4 doesn't get sharp until f2.8. The 70-200mm zoom at f/2.8 is the equivalent of either 85mm across common f/stops...but it doesn't do f1.4 or f1.8. So it may not be the quality as much as the artist "edges" you give up by going to zooms.

[Griff]

I gotta disagree about a zoom, especially one that covers that much magnification. That's a LOT of glass for the light to get thru. Keep any zoom lenses to short changes in focal length. Most don't have anything below an 4.2 or even a 4.8 f-stop, requiring slower shutter speeds and/or higher ISO settings.

But lens selection can vary greatly depending on what type of photography you'll be doing. Sports photos, yeah a zoom is a necessity so you can follow the action up, down, across and back on the field. But, you ever notice that those guys usually have 2 or 3 cameras on 'em? Those ain't backups, those're different focal lengths so they can get that wider shot when the action is right in front of them.

There's been a lot of improvements in lenses, but the same limitations apply when you add adjustable magnification. You simply loose quality when you're at the extremes. But it may not be important to have that fine an edge. At one time, I've had several zooms, I'm down to one, a 35-85mm.

...The 70-200mm zoom at f/2.8 is the equivalent of either 85mm across common f/stops...but it doesn't do f1.4 or f1.8. So it may not be the quality as much as the artist "edges" you give up by going to zooms.

Yeah, that's a great lens... but, as an amateur, maybe even a semi-serious one... $2+K? But, hey! I have a birthday comin' up!

[alnitak]

Yeah, that's a great lens... but, as an amateur, maybe even a semi-serious one... $2+K? But, hey! I have a birthday comin' up!

LOL...yeah. Good glass does sometimes cost a little bit.

And I agree with you on the superzooms. Those around 5x or less can be good quality (like the Nikon 24-120 f/4 or the 18-105mm kit lens) but once you get past 10x, it can be tough to maintain quality at all focal lengths. Physics forces limits. They are handy though, great for vacation or hiking.

[Alan Wood]

Many outside of this forum have noted the best camera is the one you have at hand when the photo opportunity arises. When it comes to photography I go to one extreme or the other nothing in between. I have an ultrazoom "consumer grade" camera that is my main camera. I forget if is 32x zoom or 40x either way the limitations of extreme zoom do intrude on image quality. Even when on vacation it is my main camera. At the other extreme I have film cameras ranging from a couple of 35mm's that if used at all are used just to document something I want to come back and photograph with a better camera later. Then there's the 2+1/14 x 2+1/4 Kowa six that is my low end serious camera. I have a decent collection of prime lenses for this one. There are no zoom lenses available for this system. Then there are my three view cameras, Two of which are my go to cameras for serious photography. The first of these is a 4x5 that is to say the negative is 4 inches by 5 inches. This camera was produced in the Los Angeles area shortly after WWII, probably by an out of work aircraft parts manufacturer. Anyway this thing was an attempt to be all things to all 4x5 photographers and as such it is difficult to replace but very much a Jack of all trades master of none camera. That having being been said with my lens collection for it it produces excellent images. As with the 2+1/4 x 2+1/4 no zoom lenses are available for it that I know of. The other one in use is an Ansco univeral 8x10 which takes 1 photo on an 8 inches by 10 inches sheet of film. My selection of lenses for this is a bit inadequate at the moment though getting one that I have bought remounted in a shutter would largely eliminate this problem. As with the prior two mentioned cameras as far as I know no zoom lenses are available for this. The third view camera is an old kodak 2d 8x10 that only had a 5x7 back when I bought it. This is one of those things that I bought for the lens on it when it was up on ebay. I forget which lens it was but it is one of the ones in use on either the 8x10 or 4x5. Other than that pretty uninteresting to me. If the 4x5 isn't up to the task the 8x10 is my go to camera. With all of this collection the consumer grade 32x or is it 40x ultra zoom gets the most use.
Alan Wood

[jeepnik]

I gotta disagree about a zoom, especially one that covers that much magnification. That's a LOT of glass for the light to get thru. Keep any zoom lenses to short changes in focal length. Most don't have anything below an 4.2 or even a 4.8 f-stop, requiring slower shutter speeds and/or higher ISO settings.

But lens selection can vary greatly depending on what type of photography you'll be doing. Sports photos, yeah a zoom is a necessity so you can follow the action up, down, across and back on the field. But, you ever notice that those guys usually have 2 or 3 cameras on 'em? Those ain't backups, those're different focal lengths so they can get that wider shot when the action is right in front of them.

There's been a lot of improvements in lenses, but the same limitations apply when you add adjustable magnification. You simply loose quality when you're at the extremes. But it may not be important to have that fine an edge. At one time, I've had several zooms, I'm down to one, a 35-85mm.

...The 70-200mm zoom at f/2.8 is the equivalent of either 85mm across common f/stops...but it doesn't do f1.4 or f1.8. So it may not be the quality as much as the artist "edges" you give up by going to zooms.

Yeah, that's a great lens... but, as an amateur, maybe even a semi-serious one... $2+K? But, hey! I have a birthday comin' up!

Nobody said it was going to be a "cheap" hobby.

The only thing that really bugged me about going digital was that my older lenses weren't compatible. The distance from the lens to the receptor is just enough off that things won't focus properly. Now tell why the camera manufactures couldn't make it the same for both film and digital. Oh wait, that' right, they couldn't sell us a bunch of new lenses if they did that.

[steve817]

You thought your shooting hobby was expensive. Photography can get worse. Maybe not as bad as it was since hardly anyone shoots film any more.

[Old Time Hunter]

Anybody know where I can get film for my Kodak box camera???

Advice, make sure you hold it steady and have good light!

[Alan Wood]

Anybody know where I can get film for my Kodak box camera???

Advice, make sure you hold it steady and have good light!

Depends on which Kodak box camera! Some no problem others... At least if you live in a fairly major metropolitan area.
Alan Wood

[Panzercat]

We went the DSLR route for a while... A eventially got tired of lugging the lenses around, then swapping them out for this picture and that. I guess it's too late to advise you on this, but you can get a good P&S camera with fully manual settings to play with. No, it won't be quite as versatile as your DSLR, but then the best camera is the one you actually carry with you.


For your homework assignment tonight-- take a picture of the moon, attempting to capture as much detail as possible.
This little excercise will acquaint you quite well with your new purchase

[cjensen]

I thought someone else would have brought this up before, digital is a passing fad, real photographers use film and foul smelling chemicals. Seriously, I bought my first real camera when I started working for a paycheck at age 16. It was a new Nikon FTN. Later traded that for an F2, then traded the Nikon F2 and lens toward a Hasselblad. Children came and the Hasselblad got put away for a Nikon FG, lots faster for the children’s photos. Bought an early digital Minolta or something. Ate NiCad’s by the bushel. I bought a Nikon P7000 and absolutely love it. However, something is pulling me back to film. So, I am resurrecting my youth and going to start dabbling with some B&W, and color slides. My scanner and printer will have to fill in for the enlarger. I'll probably get tired of lugging all that gear around after a while and switch to whatever follows digital.
Anyone else finding themselves in a similar state?
Carl

[Griff]

Anyone else finding themselves in a similar state?
Carl

Yes... my Nikkormat and 2 lenses accompany me everywhere (color slides or Kodachrome still)... Along with a Zensa-Bronica and one short zoom for B&W stuff... but... generally, when a snapshot presents itself, I pick up the Canon P&S digital.

[Grizz]

my film shooting days were mostly all B&W. I got a Topcon with pro quality lenses from Japan, but my most productive camera was an Olympus Pen F half-frame camera. I used to buy bulk film and load cassettes in a changing bag. My favorite setup was Tri-X shot at ASA 1000 and developed in accufine, (I think). I used 3 ND filters stacked when outside in strong sunlight and incrementally discarded until I was shooting candle light portraits. Every frame printed on the same paper. Amazing range.

It was a great shooter because no one believed that I could take their photos in available light. Friends would be super relaxed because they were convinced that I was fooling them. And I was!

Good old times . . .

Nowdays every telephone is shooting snaps every day, BILLIONS of images, but photoshop software is nothing like 10 hours in the darkroom watching the silver image appear.

[cjensen]

Kodachrome, what’s that? Is that like Panatomic X?
What are you using to replace the mercury batteries. I have a gossen lunar pro that I need to power. Alkalines are completely unsuitable. Silver oxides are too high of voltage as are lithiums. Zinc air cells don’t last once their seal is peeled off.
My Dad borrowed an Oly Pen FT to take antelope hunting back in the early 70’s. I still have all of the half frame slides he took. My cousin had one also. Seems like Vietnam had a lot to do with the 35mm SLR going mainstream. All the Vets coming home with the PX cameras. Seems like a lot of Pentax screw mounts came back.
I was almost B&W exclusive also at the time. I was lucky and had my own darkroom. I used to take a lot of pictures for the High School newspaper and year book. I saved them a lot of money at the time.
Bronicas, Olympus, Topcons, Nikkormats, Oh my. What a trip down memory lane. All of this is still available at KEH for a song.
Thanks for the trip.
Carl

[Neumann]

One of the best forums is www.photo.net. I've been a member for over 10 years, with many posts. If you would like to know more about new equipment, www.dpreview.com is a good site.

You're probably not interested in taking pictures of your guns (LOL), but just in case, "Light - Science and Magic" by Hunter, Biver and Fuqua is a good balance of technical stuff and practical photography.

[Grizz]

The only thing that really bugged me about going digital was that my older lenses weren't compatible. The distance from the lens to the receptor is just enough off that things won't focus properly.

yeah I fell into that with the Pen E PL-1. bought the adaptor ring for my topcor glass, no joy there. delicious lenses sitting in the dark.

I would like to find one good m2t long lens for it, that is inexpensive spectacular glass. like the topcor glass that's dirt cheap on eba. hope I don't have to wait 30 years for the current lenses to meet my budget. Heh.

[Panzercat]

Anyone else finding themselves in a similar state?
Carl

Love my film cameras