How do you take decent pictures?

[Old Time Hunter]

This is driving me nuts, have taken hundreds of pictures, but just can not do justice for the object that I take the picture of.

Especially "bore" shots. This photo below makes the bore look rough, when in actuality it is very shiny. Went and purchased a new camera, and the pictures look great when I zoom them in but I do not know how to save them in the zoomed in position. Can anybody shed some light on how to do that?





Putting this thing back together...still missing an original stock (have the one somebody hacked and a balsa wood repo, but want an original full size) and the magazine tube has been cut a couple of inches shorter than it should be.

[Griff]

When you learn how to make bore shots, let me know also! There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the other two. Are you trying to save the already taken picture with the camera's preview feature. That would likely be a camera specific feature. My little Canon SX100 doesn't have that capability. I usually wait til I download them on the 'puter to crop out unwanted details... either in the Canon software, my ArcShop or even after uploading to Photobucket... tho' I ain't sure I like their new photo editor.

"Zooming in" can be a "wolf-in-sheep's-clothing"... As long as you're in the "optical" portion of your camera's zoom range all should be good. However, cheaper camera's digital zoom capabilities can vary drastically. They run the gamit from "dismal" quality, to "discernable". They generally look ok thru the lens... and even on the 'puter screen. But... if you then try to crop that picture, you find out that you can't even recognize with the thing was!

I tend to take my pictures with the least amount of "zoom" possible, or necessary to "frame" the shot. This does two things... allows the maximum resolution for future cropping and keeps the object in focus... this is especially true if your taking a shot similar to your barrel shot.

I'll have to test is out... but I see most shot's of that type shot with the light source at the breach end.

[Old Time Hunter]

Griff,

The pictures when zoomed have really good clarity, but do not know how to "crop" or just save the zoomed portion. I down load to my 'puter and that allows me to zoom, but when I save the picture, it goes right back to the "whole" picture when I reopen them.

[Blaine]

Griff,

The pictures when zoomed have really good clarity, but do not know how to "crop" or just save the zoomed portion. I down load to my 'puter and that allows me to zoom, but when I save the picture, it goes right back to the "whole" picture when I reopen them.

You have to re-size the pics as opposed to just zooming them. Once re-sized, they can be saved.

[Ben_Rumson]

You need to learn how to crop... When you know how to crop what you do to get a large size image is set the camera to take a high resolution image... Most cameras will have settings like 2M 3M 5M 8M, the higher the M number the bigger the image will be..8M on my point and shoot camera will give you an 11"x17" image 2M "4x6" So say you have a small gun spring you want a large picture of; Get as close as you can and still maintain focus...Take the pic at 5M or 8M... You'll wind up with a spring that views as 2 or three inches long but in actuality maybe only a half inch long.. Then you crop out all the rest of the stuff in the photo around the spring. Also learn to use the Macro setting as this will allow you to get the lens of the camera to focus on objects less than a foot or less away depending on the camera you have... Set your camera on 8M & Macro and you can make a Lady Bug look as big as your hand..

[Griff]

Griff,
The pictures when zoomed have really good clarity, but do not know how to "crop" or just save the zoomed portion. I down load to my 'puter and that allows me to zoom, but when I save the picture, it goes right back to the "whole" picture when I reopen them.

Depending on the actual program you're using... but generally, under the "edit" tab on the toolbar, you'll get some cropping tools to adjust the final image size and what you want to save in the picture... Once I crop a picture, I usually go back over to the "file" tab and use the "Save As" function, rename the cropped version and save that, often with just a "-1" added after the name and before the ".jpg".

[Grizz]

OTH

Guessing you have a windows box. There is a free and very good foto program called irfanview. Been using it for many years.

Download and install. There is a seperate part called "plug-ins". You will want that also.

Open a picture and to make a box around the item you want to keep, hold down the mouse key and you will be able to draw a box onscreen. Press control and y at the same time and you will get that cropped image.

Then do a "file | save as" and modify the name so you don't overwrite the original.

That's all there is to it!

Other editing software have similar features, but irfanview is better than many payola ones.

[Old Time Hunter]

Thanks for the info guys. Fortunately I took hundreds of pictures, already messed up a bunch of them trying to "crop". Using the HP stuff, came with the printer.

[Ysabel Kid]

The only good pictures I take are of my slippers!

Now, if you want photographic advice, I'd ask our very own Kirk D!

[tomtex]

wHATS THE BEST BOOK TO BUY?

[Griff]

wHATS THE BEST BOOK TO BUY?

The one that came w/your camera? Ooops, you said "buy" and I'm thinkin' read! It was a joke son, no need to get hostile!''

Digital Photography for Dummies


You knew that you'd get a snarky answer from me, right?

[Derailed]

This guy has some good tips on taking pics you may find helpful.

http://www.northwestfirearms.com/handgu ... dures.html

[Hankster]

"already messed up a bunch of them trying to "crop". Using the HP stuff, came with the printer."

THERE is the problem!! Forget that stuff, it doesn't work right for what you wish to do. Adobe Photoshop is THE BEST... but very pricey!
Next step down, would be Corel Paint Shop Pro (it's for photo's, don't know WHO coined the "paint shop" name).... I have both. Photoshop has a bigger learning curve.. Corel is more user friendly. Also, You Tube, is FULL of "how to" videos for either one.

Corel, would be easier for a Beginner to grasp... runs about 75 bucks.. tho deals can be found. Good Luck!

[Old Time Hunter]

Too difficult...time to call the kids. Just want to point shoot, down load, and up load on to photobucket. Spent $500 on this fancy, dancey camera, it should do everything on it's own. Starting to miss my old 35mm, dropping the roll off at the photomart, telling them what I want and getting back pristine pictures whether they are blown up or not.

[Grizz]

At the risk of repeating myself again, no, wait, I am repeating myself again.

What part of free is the hardest to get?

http://www.irfanview.com/

I have used this software since it first came out. It is brilliant at what it can do, and doesn't have a bunch of stuff you won't need or use.

Photoshop is terrific if you are a pro and need to use multiple layers and to manipulate pixels in cruel ways. I have photoshop. It takes about two years of intense study to master it. My wife is certified in it. I also have photoshop elements. It's another pia for the most common and most useful mods to digital images.

Irf has a great auto color enhance function that seems to set gamma values better than I can by direct manipulation.

It will convert from almost any file format to almost any file format. It will batch rename, altering the format at the same time if you want. It makes cropping and resizing child's play. It has a few functional tweaks and playthings.

But if that's too simple and easy, there is a unix-world competitor for photoshop that is free, there's that scary word again. It does layers and a lot of other photoshop-esque alterations. It is not photoshop, but it is complicated enough to seem like it. And it's free. And it runs on windows boxes. It's called GIMP.

http://www.gimp.org/

But no one is gonna benefit from the super slick and hyper complicated image software if they can't use the simple and free stuff to do what the OP is looking for.

Repeatedly,
Grizz

[Old Time Hunter]

Grizz, appreciate the information. Not complaining about free or not, it has to meet the KISS (Keep It Simple & Stupid) criteria. Two minutes to master without having to use more than two brain cells.

Thought I could just plug the camera in to the 'puter, up load to photobucket, and have million dollar pictures....did not expect it to take work to do that.

Maybe have to get Griff's suggested reading, but that would take away from my other reading material that I am required to keep abreast of for work. I only allow three hours a day (actually night, nine to midnight) for trade manuals, industry updates, and application notes/issues...very rarely have the opportunity to get up to date on reading material that actually interests me, like guns, hunting, classic cars, auto racing, and the like.

Can not wait until retirement...pushing 60, but figure I only have about 20 more years to work.

[Ben_Rumson]

Hunter.. The required two brain cells should suffice to get yourself in the presence of someone that can do simple editing.. KISS .. In other words get someone to show you face to face how to edit your pics...

[Grizz]

it has to meet the KISS (Keep It Simple & Stupid) criteria. Two minutes to master without having to use more than two brain cells.

Yup, that's irfanview to a tee. Even I can use it!

[alnitak]

I'll also mention Picasso, which is free, for simple editing. And there are always copies of Photoshop Elements around (check ebay and Craigs List) -- the full-blown PS is too complicated!

[FatJackDurham]

GIMP RULES! I use it on Mac, Linux and Windows...

I just bought a digital SLR camera and I am dying to try it on a bore pic. I am assuming that a mini tripod, setting the f-stop do the highest possible and letting the camera adjust the shutter.

Setting the f-stop higher closes the iris and increases the depth of field. But, it makes the picture darker, and so the shutter has to be slower. That's why the tripod.

I'll probably be taking some shots this weekend, so if it works I'll post!

[alnitak]

GIMP RULES! I use it on Mac, Linux and Windows...

I just bought a digital SLR camera and I am dying to try it on a bore pic. I am assuming that a mini tripod, setting the f-stop do the highest possible and letting the camera adjust the shutter.

Setting the f-stop higher closes the iris and increases the depth of field. But, it makes the picture darker, and so the shutter has to be slower. That's why the tripod.

I'll probably be taking some shots this weekend, so if it works I'll post!

Sounds like you got it all figured out!

I wouldn't do highest possible f/stop. Most lenses are diffraction-limited at f/11-16, not to mention the CCD/CMOS chip limitations. Try a few from f/8 to f/16 and see what's best. Different lighting angles, fore and aft, may help too. For slow shutter speeds (less than 1/focal length) use vibration control (if the lens or camera has it). I've done 1 sec hand-held with VR on.

[Old Time Hunter]

GIMP RULES! I use it on Mac, Linux and Windows...

I just bought a digital SLR camera and I am dying to try it on a bore pic. I am assuming that a mini tripod, setting the f-stop do the highest possible and letting the camera adjust the shutter.

Setting the f-stop higher closes the iris and increases the depth of field. But, it makes the picture darker, and so the shutter has to be slower. That's why the tripod.

I'll probably be taking some shots this weekend, so if it works I'll post!

Sounds like you got it all figured out!

I wouldn't do highest possible f/stop. Most lenses are diffraction-limited at f/11-16, not to mention the CCD/CMOS chip limitations. Try a few from f/8 to f/16 and see what's best. Different lighting angles, fore and aft, may help too. For slow shutter speeds (less than 1/focal length) use vibration control (if the lens or camera has it). I've done 1 sec hand-held with VR on.

It was all gobblydeegook until this was mentioned, CCD/CMOS. The technogeek that sold me the camera said I needed that...do not know what the heck it is, but I have it.

[Bigahh]

OTH,

Just a small tip for close up shots that most digital cameras have. Somewhere there is a button to push that when pushed a Cauliflower looking thing comes on in the screen meaning better clarity "UP Close" I am sure your camera has that button somewhere. Hope it helps.

[COSteve]

It's clear by my offerings that I'm not one to ask. I figure if it's basically in focus and I didn't miss half of the object, I've done well.

[FatJackDurham]

that close up cauliflour thing is the macro button. Cameras used to use stacking tubes between the lens and the body to allow extreme close up focusing, for insects and flowers and such.

Unfortunately, that also decreases the depth of field. YOu can get head of a fly in focus, but his hind legs would be blurry.

Now I have to look up what diffraction limited means. Thanks for the tips, though. THis will be my first challenge with the new camera.

[alnitak]

Now I have to look up what diffraction limited means. Thanks for the tips, though. THis will be my first challenge with the new camera.

Try this:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutor ... tion.shtml

[alnitak]

that close up cauliflour thing is the macro button. Cameras used to use stacking tubes between the lens and the body to allow extreme close up focusing, for insects and flowers and such.

Unfortunately, that also decreases the depth of field. YOu can get head of a fly in focus, but his hind legs would be blurry.

You mean like this:

[vancelw]

At the risk of repeating myself again, no, wait, I am repeating myself again.

http://www.irfanview.com/

http://www.gimp.org/

Grizz

Another vote for both of those.
If you like KISS and have Microsoft Office, the Microsoft Office picture manager is pretty handy at doing the basic stuff, like crop, rotate, export, and resize (to get it less than 1000x1000 pixels).

If you don't know where to find it, at the run prompt, type in ois.exe

[getitdone1]

Natural light through window often best.

Use tripod whenever possible.

Use camera timer to trip shutter rather than your hand/finger. Avoids 'camera shake.' I often like 12 seconds rather than 2 to allow tripod
to settle-down after I remove my finger from shutter button.

High f-stop for greater depth of field (both foreground and background in focus) and low f-stop to blur background and accent the foreground and subject.

Optimum picture quality often around f-5 to f-8.

Artificial lighting can often result in unnatural color compared to using daylight.

To me, using a tripod whenever possible is a biggy.

Don

[COSteve]

If you like KISS and have Microsoft Office, the Microsoft Office picture manager is pretty handy at doing the basic stuff, like crop, rotate, export, and resize (to get it less than 1000x1000 pixels).

Windows 7 now recommends the Window Live Essentials programs which are free downloads HERE. One, Windows Live Photo Gallery, is a great photo organizing and editing program that I use to organize and edit my photos from my Nikon Coolpics P100. It's way better than the s/w that comes with the Nikon and it's simple and straight forward to use. (It must be, I have no problems with it and I'm . . . . . . . well, let's just say that software ain't my thing.)

[FatJackDurham]

First attempt. I tried something simple, like the bore of my Uberti Cattleman. I'll bet natural light would have been better.

I used a tripod, manual settings, F32, 100 ISO, and slightly under exposure with the light meter. I use the timer so it shot at around 1/2 sec. To get light in the bore, I laid a white patch behind the barrel. However, the florescent light and the yellow rag overwhelmed the white balance on the camera. Still, for a first try its not bad.






Hmmmm.. Looks like there is a bit of schmutz in my barrel from my trip to the range. Looked clean enough to me in the basement lights with my astigmatism...... Maybe this bore photography is a bad idea....

[bdhold]

close-ups are actually the easiest of all if your camera has the lens for it, and you can make your light source effectively larger than your lens


What is difficult is getting even light and minimizing projection errors (spherical aberration, parallax error) on a large subject.
To minimize optical errors, you want to use the longest focal length (i.e., stand back as far as you can and zoom as much as you can get away with).
Back to the problem of getting even light.
Shooting outdoors in overcast is your best option.


The bore shot? I would use a fiber-optic borescope, but then I have that option.
There are ways to get lights up the barrel.
Then tricky lens alignment.
A similar problem is viewing into a sight image.

[FatJackDurham]

that close up cauliflour thing is the macro button. Cameras used to use stacking tubes between the lens and the body to allow extreme close up focusing, for insects and flowers and such.

Unfortunately, that also decreases the depth of field. YOu can get head of a fly in focus, but his hind legs would be blurry.

You mean like this:

Did you take those? How'd you get him to pose? Super glue?

[alnitak]

Did you take those? How'd you get him to pose? Super glue?

No posing...just a lot of bug stalking with a camera in hand. Depending upon the lens you have and the working distance, it can be challenging. Funny, bugs seem to recognize heads, but appear to be less skittish if you hide behind your camera/flash/diffuser set up. Given their mobility, a tripod is not an option.

Then again, if you are so inclined and can catch them, putting bugs in the fridge for an hour or so will slow them down (at least until they warm up).

[alnitak]

I used a tripod, manual settings, F32, 100 ISO, and slightly under exposure with the light meter. I use the timer so it shot at around 1/2 sec. To get light in the bore, I laid a white patch behind the barrel. However, the florescent light and the yellow rag overwhelmed the white balance on the camera. Still, for a first try its not bad.

As I mentioned previously, I think f/32 is too high (and may be why your pics are not sharp). I also would shoot at higher ISO (maybe 800) to reduce your shutter time. Try a piece of white poster board as a reflector and bouncing a light into the bore. You can also adjust the WB, either in camera or in post-processing if you shoot RAW.

[bdhold]

I had a breeding pair of S. Pacific white-line gekkos once (paid for the pair by selling their babies).
The male was shy, but the females are very social, and she used to flirt with the macro lens.

[FatJackDurham]

I used a tripod, manual settings, F32, 100 ISO, and slightly under exposure with the light meter. I use the timer so it shot at around 1/2 sec. To get light in the bore, I laid a white patch behind the barrel. However, the florescent light and the yellow rag overwhelmed the white balance on the camera. Still, for a first try its not bad.

As I mentioned previously, I think f/32 is too high (and may be why your pics are not sharp). I also would shoot at higher ISO (maybe 800) to reduce your shutter time. Try a piece of white poster board as a reflector and bouncing a light into the bore. You can also adjust the WB, either in camera or in post-processing if you shoot RAW.

I tried it, but I couldn't get the depth of field. I only have an 85 zoom so I couldn't quit get it all worked out.

I like the white poster board idea.

If I am using a tripod and a timer, should it matter what the shutter time is? I don't have much experience with the simulated ISO settings, but in real film, lower ISO's tended to be much clearer, less graining.

I think I will try this out in natural light this weekend.