OT - got the John Deere - weight/ballast question?

[AJMD429]

Well, we 'splurged' and got the John Deere 2520; it will be the second 'new' vehicle I've ever bought in my life - first was my truck 16 years ago.

Anyway, we just got a fairly 'standard' setup - front-end bucket-loader, rear scraper blade, and under-deck mower. I also have a 3-pt. hitch 'palate' loader we'll put a box on to carry firewood, mostly. Now I realize the tractor, tires, and operator together will only weigh slightly over 2,000 lbs., as this is a small 'utility' tractor, so I don't expect to haul mountains, but I'm trying to get a feel for what is SAFE to do with it.

For some of the close-quarter pile-moving, ice-scraping, firewood-hauling, etc., we may want to use the front-end loader without any rear attachment, or the palate loader without any front attachment. How do you figure out how many front weights or rear 'ballast' you need...?

When I do the calculations, just using the implement weights and evident center of gravity, I get similar 'axle loads' to the software Deere has on their website, and theirs is set up to advise more weight in front if you have less than 20% of the vehicle weight on the front axle, and more weight in the back if you have less than 50% of the vehicle weight on the rear axle. There are a couple things I don't understand, though:

• 1. Tire Load Ratings: With more than a couple hundred pounds in the front bucket (it is rated for at least 800), the load on the front axle is more than twice the "maximum load per tire" for the front tires; I assume the first time I lift 201 lbs. my front tires won't explode, but to correct that problem I'd have to put a full 1,000 lbs in the rear (which means I'd have to remove the rear blade so I cold add a ballast-box, and "nobody does that just to use their front-end loader"). Is the rating for the front tires & axle just an 'average' not to exceed?
  
  2. Use of Weights: I'm assuming that since "nobody does it", that you don't really have to replace the rear blade with a ballst-box, just to use the front-end loader normally, which makes me figure the calculation/spreadsheet approach to adding weights may be nice in theory, but may need tempered with reality. According to the spreadsheet and charts, I'd need all ten possible front-end weights (420 lbs) to haul even 400-500 pounds on a rear carrier, and a full 1,000 lbs (maximum for the tractor) in the rear to use the front-end loader to even half its rated capacity. Should I just get all those weights right off the bat, or is there some way to tell before you flip your tractor that you need more weights, and if so, how MUCH more?

[geobru]

I'm not s very good reference for this specific tractor, but I do know what we did when I was growing up. If the front end was too heavy, it was hard to steer, and if the rear was overloaded, the steering was very light and not enough weight was on the front axle. We made adjustments according to the performance of the tractor under a specific load. I would use the tractor the way you think you will be using it and get a feel for its handling capabilities. THEN, I would ask the dealership you bought it from specific questions about the way your tractor is performing and buy what you need to enable you to use the tractor for your tasks.

You're asking a bunch of gun cranks to suggest the optimal solution before you have sent any lead down range, so to speak! If you were asking about a gun, you would get a bunch of responses telling you to shoot the gun to see what it likes before you make modifications to it.

John Deere makes good equipment and this should do everything you ask it to. Good luck!

[BenT]

Just what Geobru said. It all based on performance. Use heavy steering and light steering as a reference on what to do . When using my tractor loader to haul stuff I put on the rear blade to compesate and it helps with the heavy steering issue. When I'm hauling real heavy stuff in the bucket I have some suitecase weights that I hang on the rear blade for added weight. Mine is a full size tractor but the same holds true for them all. You'll figure it out based on what you are doing.

By the way nice purchase! Your set for long time now.(as far as tractors go, guns you never know)

[BigSky56]

AJ, just keep your load close to the ground when traveling carrying loads and to keep you from loosing your religion get one swing arm that extends/contracts as nobody can back in perfect to hookup, a plus would be quick hookup/disconnect for the 3 point hitch system. If you are carrying alot of weight in the fork box put some weight in the loader bucket. danny

[cajun_64]

You may also consider putting some water in the tires for counter weight purposes and also helps with traction.

Every tractor we had on the farm growing up, we always aired down all the tires and filled them up with water then used air to inflate to pressure.
With out this the tires would spin uselessly when pulling or pushing.

[Thunder50]

You don't want water in your rear tires. Will freeze in Winter. You want a calcium cloride solution, IIRC. Had it in my MF135 for about 35 yrs now.

[pwl44m]

I have to carry either a Tiller or Box Scraper to counter the Loader on My Itty Bitty Kubota.

[Don McDowell]

Ask you dealer, to come out and help with that. It's under warranty and that's part of the perks of buying new from a reputable dealer.

[cajun_64]

You don't want water in your rear tires. Will freeze in Winter. You want a calcium cloride solution, IIRC. Had it in my MF135 for about 35 yrs now.

Yeah, sorry, we don't have much freezing problems down here. Excuse me now while I go find my brain.

[DennisD]

I suggest you always have weight on the rear, either one of your attachments or a ballast box of some sort. The front axles of tractors, especially compact tractors are not designed to carry near the weight of the rear axles. By keeping weight on the rear you will shift the pivot point to the rear axle. Liquid filled tires or wheel weights help move the center of gravity lower to offer more stability but it doesn't move the pivot point from the front axle when you have a full bucket in the FEL.

You could use your 3pt carrier with come concrete blocks on it when you need it.

I welded brackets to my 3 point quick attach to hang suitcase weights. BTW, you might want to look into getting a quick attach hitch for the 3pt. It makes hooking up and unhooking implements fun instead of a chore.

[homefront]

Filling the rear tires of my L2800 with methyl alcohol added 800lbs of traction and eliminated any concerns about overloading the front bucket. Don't have to worry about freezing either. No weights to add or remove, no calculations. Helps keep me planted when using the backhoe, also works just fine when nothing's on the machine except the rear mower.

[33wcfshooter]

Like Danny said keep the bucket low to the ground. Also, like the others have said it helps to get the tires loaded.Most tire places have a road service that will fill them with cloride or maybe the dealer will help you as you bought it new.Only problem is the cloride will eat the rims but it is a good idea on the small tractors with the short wheel base. If your not used to running tractors a thing you always want to do is make slow turns and slow down before you stop these are the places where most have problems with tipping.You also will get a feel for how the tractor is when you've got some weight on just like trucks you can feel it and kinda adjust for it.When you use diesels in the winter it is good to add 911 to the fuel most Tractors Supply and NAPA stores carry it (red bottle says 911 right on the side) it works great keeps them from jelling (we add to the tractors tank ever fill up even though we have a mixed off road diessel). Don't worry to much about the weight as long as there not turf tires most tractor tires take a lot there like skidder tires. Also, nice to see you went with a Deere there what we use mostly on the farm and I think there a good solid machine.

[rogn]

You can also use antifreeze solution in the tires, either ethylene glycol or the safe RV type. Dilute it down to safe at what lowest temp you expect and youve bypassed the corrosion issue. Might add a few dollars to operating costs, but your protected against corrosion and freezing. The glycols add sinificant weight.

[BenT]

Windsheild washer fluid is the cheapest to fill tubes with. But if you plan on using it to mow , you don't want fluid in your tires, tears up the lawn too much.

[AJMD429]

When you use diesels in the winter it is good to add 911 to the fuel most Tractors Supply and NAPA stores carry it (red bottle says 911 right on the side) it works great keeps them from jelling (we add to the tractors tank ever fill up even though we have a mixed off road diessel).

How long can you store diesel? We still have a 55-gallon barrel of it from when we had a bulldozer 3 years ago. If it goes 'bad' how can you tell by just looking at it?

[33wcfshooter]

Diesel should still be good but you might want to look close to see if it's got water in it and also watch out for dirt and rust it causes problems with the injectors and can be $$ in filters so you might want to be careful if it's been in a barrel for 3 years. Best bet with a brand new rig is to get fresh fuel at least to start with you don't want to change filters in winter if you don't have to. Also,does your JD 2520 have a either bottle or does it use glow plugs? If it has glow plugs I wouldn't even take a chance get new fuel. If you have any questions PM me and I can try to help ,been using tractors since I was 5 and still use them everyday(dairy farm).

[AJMD429]

Thanks for all the help and information. Guess I should post a "Range Report", since I finally got it. It did well in the snow, clearing stuff, and hauling a deer carcass (road-kill) from by our mailbox (glad it wasn't warm out) across Uncle's 100 acres of river-bottom (on ice-covered snow) for coyote-bait...

Here it is fresh off the delivery truck - hadn't taken the mower off yet...



I just have to remember NEVER to let my wife see me smile when I'm using it...

[Gobblerforge]

Nice looking rig. Does it have 4 wheel drive? If so, there should be no need for loading the tires. It doesn't look like you have very steep terain to deal with. I would suggest that you use it for a while and see if there are any traction issues. Probably won't have any. If traction ever does become a problem, then my suggestion would be to purchase a set of chains. Easy on, easy off, easy storage, great for ice [loading the tires doesn't help] and won't rot the rims.
Gobbler

[Borregos]

I would love to play with that

[stretch]

I just have to remember NEVER to let my wife see me smile when I'm using it...

Oh, yeah - that's HARD WORK man...no fun there.....
rather be inside vacuuming and ironing and stuff...

-Stretch

[Buffboy]

I may be wrong but given that alcohols are oxygen carriers, are very corrosive to some metals, dissolve a lot of rubber products and paints, I wouldn't be putting any alcohol based liquids in tires for ballast. I guess I've never heard of such a thing. Calcium chloride solutions are all I've ever seen used for ballast weight in tractors, though I can't think of any reason the glycol solutions wouldn't work. That shouldn't damage the rubber of the tire or cause as much corrosion as calcium chloride.

[AJMD429]

Nice looking rig. Does it have 4 wheel drive? If so, there should be no need for loading the tires. It doesn't look like you have very steep terain to deal with. I would suggest that you use it for a while and see if there are any traction issues. Probably won't have any. If traction ever does become a problem, then my suggestion would be to purchase a set of chains. Easy on, easy off, easy storage, great for ice [loading the tires doesn't help] and won't rot the rims.
Gobbler

That's pretty much the same conclusion I've come to.

[Nate C.]

If the front end gets light from overloading the back, you can always steer with the brakes--just go slow. Also, with the bucket on the front end, a scoop of rock/dirt will probably cover you for extra weight on a tractor that size. I can't speak to ballasting the rear tires--I never had to do much in that white stuff on the ground. I believe you can buy removable weights that fit around the rear axles, but I'm not sure if they are available for tractors that small.

[rafter-7]

I 've run this compact utility tractor for atleast 25 years. tractors include 650 JD 750 JD 850 JD 870 JD and my dad now has a 2520 just like yours

i would be very careful about adding ballist weight

up front weight can make the 3 point lift more than it should your centerlink will break first and if you dont heed that warning then your arms will be next.

when doing loader work leave just your back blade on that is more than enough weight back there. a bucket of dirt will make that thing squirly and unstable. Drive with the bucket low and if you lift it to load a trailer make sure all 4 wheels are strait and square to the trailer.

my dads hyd. pump went out at 13 hours a factory issue i guess it was replaced and his oil pan started leaking then too. answer was in assembly they put an oil pan bolt in that was too long and pushed the pan away from the block easy fix

these lil tractors are bullet proof if you use common sence and a good maintaince program this tractor will last for decades

watch your radiator when cutting grass it tends to plug with grass clippings and could cause heating problems in windy conditions

if you need the glo plugs (cold) let them full cycle! do not short cycle the plugs it will damage them in a short hurry.

dont worry about tires and load ratings let the tractor tell you what it can do and just remember its an UTILITY tractor not a pay loader

have fun they are a sweet ride

^
7

[stretch]

+1 on the full cycle for the glow plugs! It's good advice.

My brother had a LOT of experience with this
in the US Army - armored cav.

-Stretch